Tick Fever 

Great route!!!Pick your rest spots on this route. I found one, there was another for sure. Very pumpy and consistent throughout.

The best 11a in LCC by default. Still fun though.

As someone new to these pages, I was pleasantly surprised to see a route that Lynn Wheeler and I did many years ago has received such high praise.Wheels and I were going thru a "crack" phase back then ,spending many hours roaming up and down the canyon with binoculars,looking for crack climbs.I had spied this one and talked Wheels into going up and looking at what he felt was a scrapheap(and relatively speaking I guess it still is.) We did all the moves except the crux, free.The crux was freed after Hong pulled a pin that Wheels left,then utilized the remaining pocket as a finger hold.No matter.Hong was so strong he probably could have punched a new hole in the rock! We didn't call it Tick Fever by the way.
Cheers,Jeff Newsom

had a laugh yesterday when I was on this and found a tick on my shoulder

Long live Wheels! I remember in the old guide this was the "Wheeler-Newsom Wall". Funny how guidebook authors get to revise/edit things.

Thanks for noticing Drew!! I confess,my ego was a little bruised when the Ruckmans did that.Though we never named the route,I felt it should have at least been left as the Wheeler-Wall(Ellison originally named it the Wheeler -Newsom Wall,thanks Les!)as a tribute to Wheels.Yeah man, long live Wheeler!!
The Ruckman brothers were tight with Hong so I suppose that prompted it.Who knows??
Cheers,JN

Hey Jeff:

Thanks for checking in. I like the old name, and I still call it The Wheeler Newsom Wall. The Ruckman's probably changed the name because of all of Steve's contributions. Steve was quite revered at the time. Glad I got to climb with Wheels.

Howdy Brian!---
Yes, it seems like everybody from that period has their Wheeler stories.My favorite is when Wheeler and I raced out from Deep Lake one day,hopped in one of his old beaters,sped 70mph over those beat up roads into Boulder Wyo, to grab some chips ahoy cookies,then zoomed back out to camp at Deep Lake!!White knuckle driving to say the least!
-------JN--------

Soo gooooood! exciting crux! Thank you Wheeler and Newsom! Is that oldschool hanger at the top from the FA?

This is one of the most exhilirating and powerful 5.11 climbs in the canyon. This is absolutely not to be missed! Save all your energy for the double cracks...

Not many good 11a's in the canyon, but this one makes up for it. Beautifully steep thin hand crack to a fat horn rest followed by a fun chimney flake all ending in pulling the small bulge on blue tcu sized crack. Have a couple tcu sized pieces handy for the top 20 feet to the chains. I need some antibiotics for my tick fever!

The bottom takes cams well, and the top takes stoppers well.