Tibia Crack is to the left of Cul-De-Sac (the inside corner below the coffee table-sized roof). Start out by climbing up the very shallow inside corner past some clumps of long grass. Once you get to the crack, use nice jams and some rightward laybacking to get up to a hanging v-shaped chimney (crux). Struggle for a while figuring out how to get through this akward chimney. Pass through the chimney and cruise to the top.
Standard Rack, some runners to prevent rope drag.
|By Steve Sangdahl|
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 6, 2002
first lead : Peter Cleveland,1967
|By Tom Anderson-Brown|
From: Madison, WI
Aug 25, 2004
Sweet pictures Mike! Thanks for contributing.
|By Dmitriy Litvak|
From: Pacifica, CA
Nov 18, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
An honest 5.8+
Could climb like 5.9 on first lead.
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 18, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I climbed this last week but I climbed it with a slight variation. At the chimney I went right around the roof and basically mantled over the roof and continued straight up. I can't compare the original route to this, as I didn't do it, but I'd have to say going right at the chimney is comparable to the original route. Thoughts?
Jun 3, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
"PG-13" rated unless I missed a good placement higher up in the chimney.
|By Doug Hemken|
Jun 4, 2010
There is one decent piece of gear in the chimney (see the photos of Carey leading it), but its pretty specific: a 1 or 1.5 inch cam or tricam.