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> Glacier Gorge
> Chiefshead
> Chiefshead S Face
Thurmond/Levine
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British R
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Chiefshead South Face
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Arete Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hot Brownie T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Into The Great Wide Open 5.10c * T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ramp Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Route 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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South Spur T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Thurmond/Levine T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 470 ft (142 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Jim Thurmond rope solo |
| Page Views: | 1,108 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Jul 30, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
It's not the NORTH SIDE OF CHIEFSHEAD. It's the South Face of Chiefshead. I'd like to call it Thurmond's Wall, if there are no objections. The Southface has a cool wall that I fell in love with while staring at it from the east face of Mt. Alice. It has a little gendarme just left of center 50'? The first route I did is on the lower right side of the wall. A small roof of the ground leading into a right-facing dihedral. The crack system is pretty much straight up for 2 pitches. There is a nice belay under a spectacular roof, vibrant with most of the colors in a rainbow. These cracks are a sprt (sic) climbers dream if they are looking for splitter 5.14 and up roof cracks. Plus, there is this big sloping ledge under the roof that makes bailing a snap. I aided several of the sickest free cracks I have ever seen, just because leap-frogging Friends through those colors was irresistable. But the free route goes straight over the belay. DANGER!!! Large stone!! is loose above the belay. As you step out over the belay to get through the roof, you want to stand on it. DON'T! It's easy to avoid. Just be careful PLEASE. Who knows? Maybe it fell? The last pitch is kind of a spire. Easy climbing up its south face leads to a pointed to out (sic). Walk down east through the scree slopes. I give it 3 stars, because it is so remote. It's south-facing. The views are out-of-hand gorgeous, and you can spend the whole day naked, because nobody ever goes there. Plus, the big horn herd hangs out here. You can bivy at Mt. Alice, but not here. Check with the Rangers about the rules to this area. It's a little piece of Eldo in the park. Jim Thurmond.
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