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Desperado Wall
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YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Nathan Brown, Tim Snyder, Petey Allen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,130
Submitted By: nbrown on Aug 18, 2008
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Following the moderate face up high.
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  • Description 

    The cruxes are isolated and well protected, making this a worthwhile route to try to onsight. Locate the left line of bolts at the very top of the tree ledge. They are nearly invisible due to a tan colored paint. P-1 Climb the short section of patina type edges to a bolt and a difficult mantel. Clip another bolt and make a thin and reachy move to good holds that lead to a good stance. Move right and up to a an obvious large pocket, and clip the 3rd bolt. Make more hard moves past this to the 4th bolt. Continue up past another bolt to a great stance and gear. Move right (#1 camelot here)and up to the last bolt. Make more thin moves past this to bulgy horizontals (small cams here), and finally a nice belay ledge at 100'. P-2 Climb up and diagonally right to the top (5.7).


    On the far left side of the Desperado wall. It is up the hill from "Reckless Criminal". Look for the nearly invisible tan colored bolt hangers.


    light rack of cams up to #1 camelot

    Comments on Thunderstruck Add Comment
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    By nbrown
    From: western NC
    Aug 19, 2008

    Thanks Tim. Got it.

    By Edward Medina
    From: Charlotte, NC
    Feb 22, 2010

    Been racking my brain to figure out who this Petey Allen is. I think I figured it out. Is he that short dude with really heavy facial hair? Tends to drool?

    By nbrown
    From: western NC
    Mar 31, 2010

    Yes Eddie that's correct. He always seems to remain calm even when I'm completely scared out of my wits.