Thunderstruck 5.13
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13 [details] |
| FA: | Mike Johnson |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Glenn Schuler on Apr 15, 2008 |
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Thunderstruck starts about 20' right of the dead t...
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Please do your best to maintain good relationships with the people who own the land in this area. Do not drive your vehicle past the "private property" sign. Do not go up to the house to ask for directions to the crag. Do not ride your bike down the road. Please move immediately to the side of the road if any landowners are approaching in their vehicles.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Description P1 - A mix of 3 bolts and natural gear take you through a left leaning crack system to a two bolt belay stance. (.12)
P2 - Follow the wild, left arching roof system out the biggest part of the overhang above. (.13)
This route can also be led in one long pitch with a 70 meter.
Location This route starts about 75' to the right of the Reptile Butress. Look for the striking crack system that leads to the middle of the Giant overhang.
Protection The first pitch has three bolts before the obvious crack. You'll need to place some gear between the first and second bolts. Continue up the left leaning crack system for about 50' on natural gear to the belay stance. The second pitch is bolt protected.
Seth on Thunderstruck. Pitch one - 5.12.
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| Comments on Thunderstruck |
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By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Apr 16, 2008
| I'm confused. Is this a crack or not? It's described as "trad", and mentions a striking crack system, but says the first pitch has a couple bolts and the second pitch is fully bolted. Sounds awesome, and a better description will probably make it sound even better. |
By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Apr 17, 2008
| The crack system on the first pitch does require gear. I've never done the climb but it looks to be about hand size. It's easily scoped from the ground so you'll be able to decide sizing & quantity no problem. If you get on it, let us know how it goes! Sorry for the confusion. |
By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 16, 2008
| Could this route be done as one pitch with a 70m?
Psyched to try this next time I make it down.... |
By Kevin McLaughlin
From: Colorado Springs
Dec 18, 2008
| Dear Mr. Burns, I do not know about the 70 meter question, sorry. To my knowledge, this route is awaiting a second ascent. Some folks have recently been on it and are returning for another go at it soon ... so...hopefully you or someone else can shed some new light on this route in the near future. Good Luck and safe climbing. Another unrepeated .12+/.13 is Wave Goodbye at the Lounge. An awesome route. Check out that one, too. |
By Dave Russell
Jun 7, 2009
| 1st pitch is as good as it gets....boulder move, roof pulling, lay backing, stemming....bring xtra small tcu's for the top.
Ive only TR'd the second pitch....very well protected with super powerful moves...105' linking both pitches |
By Madaleine
Apr 6, 2010
| This route is visually striking and the climbing a superb journey. Last fall, I watched my friend on it and then surprised myself by flashing it, in one pitch, afterwards. I can thank this route for a tweaked shoulder and a huge smile. I don't think this route is 5.13. 12+. |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 6, 2010
| Nice, Madaleine. It really is a cool looking line. |
By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Apr 9, 2010
| Congrats, Madeleine! That is impressive. |
By Scott Bennett
Dec 2, 2010
| I was very impressed by this route! As soon as the Brown wall comes into view as you hike up Wasp Canyon, this is the line that stands out.
The first pitch is a great warm-up, felt maybe 11+. The second is all business, with some delicate slabbing to set up for two successive roofs.
The first roof was the standout crux for us, and we could not figure out the moves. I'd love to see someone on this, seems like a bizarre and strenuous sequence. Can't comment on the 12+/13 debate, since we didn't do the moves, but it felt hard.
Huge thanks to the equippers, FA, and everyone else who has worked to make Thunder an amazing crag. And big props to Madaleine for a proud ascent!
-Scott
Also, to clarify, you can definitely lower off the top anchors (atop P2) with a 70m. |
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