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Starts just left of Medicine Man (5.7) and climbs thin edges up and left to a crux move past the second bolt. Past the crux, the holds get huge and easier moves lead to a ledge with chain anchors.
While possible to go either way, it's better to stay left of the bolts for a more enjoyable series of moves.
5 bolts, chain anchors (shared with Medicine Man)
Ben's first lead on a 5.9
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 17, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Good climb but most of it is fairly easy. The crux, however, is pretty blank and vertical. Can unfortunately be bypassed by staying right in the crack, moving up and left above the crux.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Sep 23, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
I think the shared anchors are very inconvenient. Especially if Medicine Man is occupied. There's a solitary bolt up and right of the finish with a failed placement next to it, makes sense to me to reset this anchor.
Crux is tricky for a 5.9, height helps, and also route finding skills, not as good at the bolted routes left and right of it, but worth a gander.