Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Wade Forrest, JJ Schlick 2014
Page Views: 3,349 total · 29/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Dec 20, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

Like it's neighbor Man On the Moon, this pitch hosts an array of mega features, and is some of the closest climbing around that mimics granite face climbing. One could easily find a pitch like this in Joshua Tree or The City of Rocks. Varied, engaging, and airy climbing that is guaranteed to keep you on your toes, or soaring through the air.

Start out on slaby ramp 30' downhill from Man On the Moon. Move up and right across the slab to gain the first tan colored bolt above a dishy ledge. Cruise up large features through a short dihedral with bolt #2 on the slab to climber's right. Before traversing right on the large wavy ledge, clip bolt #3 which will be on climber's left on a small, smooth right facing feature, and blends in well. Then jug haul up several shields to an alcove.

From there the climbing gets a bit more technical and pumpy. Good stemming brings you to the arête and gorgeous holds. Don’t be afraid to look left around the arête for a nice mail slot. Turn the lip with classic big foot hold hero moves to a good stance just above. Carefully set yourself up for some slabtastic climbing as you join the seam that forms the very top of Lucky Old Sun.

As seen from above, and back from the wall, the Thunderbird formation is the lowest part of the hanging slab. Lucky Old Sun Direct climbs the left edge off the left wing. Thunderbird Arête climbs the tail feathers, then up through the split in the wings. While Man On The Moon climbs the right edge of the right swooping wing.

This pitch can be done as an alternate start to the multi pitch version of Man On the Moon, via a short traverse into the second pitch.

Location Suggest change

In between Lucky Old Sun and Man On the Moon, behind 70' Fir tree.

Protection Suggest change

13 lead bolts
2 bolt chain anchor with ClimbTech steel mussy hooks.
Shares anchor with Lucky Old Sun

Photos

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