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Lei Pi Shan
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crash and Burn S 
Honky tonk S 
Jeja S 
Lightning S 
Name?  S 
One Love S 
Power Of One, The S 
Singularity S 
Thunder S 
Waiting for Sophy S 
Unsorted Routes:

Thunder 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Chen Xie Wei (Sept. 2008)
Page Views: 366
Submitted By: ---- on Feb 15, 2011

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Description 

'Thunder' is like 'lightning' in that it is a popular climb to the first set of anchors. The similarites stop there. Climbing to the first set of anchors is 12c. Start by negotiating your way up a blank looking slab that is not as blank as it appears. After a good rest fly through numerous crux-like sequences on super positive crimps. It is similar to climbing on postive jibs in a rock gym.

Weasel your way up on a tufa after clipping the first anchor. Rest up here for some truely cryptic movement. The first sequence involves setting up in an awkward undercling position before unfurling a coordinated dynamic move to a slopey left hand pocket. Quickly catch your breath and then set up for a three points off dyno to a great jug. From here carefully meander your way through pumpy slopey pods and tufas to the anchor. This route is much more bouldery than 'Lightning.' I have not redpointed the upper portion and am fine with the description being updated if someone else has better info.


Location 

Next route to the Left of 'Lightning,' in the center of the cliff. Look for a slopey 10" diameter pod at the first bolt.


Protection 

16 bolts (estimate). Unclipping the bolt above the first set of anchors will spare your rope of some tufa abrasion.



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