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Elevation: 7,836 ft
GPS: 39.1987, -105.21985
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 295,946 total · 1,047/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Road & nearby private property & COVID-19 Closure - now open DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Scattered around the state of Colorado, a little off the beaten path, are dozens, if not hundreds, of superb climbing areas that see very little traffic despite hosting oftentimes many wonderful routes. Thunder Ridge is one of my favorite "secret" crags with a wealth of fine climbing to be had. Strictly speaking, Thunder Ridge is a South Platte crag; however, the ridge is so extensive as to warrant status as an area in its own right.

Thunder Ridge was discovered by Steve Cheyney in the late 1980s and features over 200 routes. The routes are typically highly-featured alligator skin, single-pitch mixed and sport lines in the 5.10 to 5.11 range. Picture vertical to slightly overhanging face climbing on bomber incut edges and chickenheads. With that said, several standout routes also exist in the 5.7 to 5.9 range. Additionally, some of the best 5.12s in the Front Range can be found here. If Thunder was closer to Boulder, it would be the most popular cragging area around. Since it is nearly two hours from Boulder and a solid hour from Colorado Springs, it sees very little traffic, and you typically have the entire area to yourself. The crags primarily face south, although there are some canyons that hold shade all day as well. In the winter, Brown Wall and Alligator Lounge bake in the sun, while For Real and Wasp Canyon can be great summertime choices.

January 2013 Update. Please read as access is sensitive here:

The rocks at Thunder Ridge reside entirely on Pike National Forest land. However, half of the approach, which involves walking down a gated dirt road, is on private property. The road is private property from behind the gate (where you park) to where you leave it at the two-track. This is not a closed Forest Service road; it is essentially a driveway. The landowner is ok with climbers walking the road, but he is NOT ok with anyone driving or mountain biking down the road. This is a reasonable request; please honor it. The land to the left of the road is forest service land as well, but there is not a trail along this and we want to continue to utilize the road as long as the landowner is ok with it. PLEASE DO NOT JEOPARDIZE THIS IN ANY WAY. The landowner has become extremely frustrated with people driving down the road and approaching his house to ask for direction and has posted a lot of threatening signs about no trespassing and shooting people. Several climbers, including Joe Sambataro of the Access Fund, Jason Haas of Fixed Pin Publishing, and original developers Steve Cheyney and Glenn Schuler spoke with the landowner after these signs were posted and got him to agree to allow climbers to walk the road, but that's it! Please follow these simple rules:

* Park off to the left at the end of Nine-J Road, and do not block either gate.

* Do not drive or mountain bike down the road.

* When the private road makes a 90-degree turn towards the house, continue straight on the two-track and do not approach the house.

* No camping or overnight parking. Instead, drive about three miles back up Nine-J Road and camp in one of the pullouts where the trees start up again.

* Walk to the side of the road and get out of the way of oncoming cars - this is a private road that is used by the local landowners.

* No fires - this is a high fire danger area.

* Stay on existing trails.

Getting There Suggest change

From Denver/Boulder - take US 285 to Pine Junction and head south (left) on CO-126/Pine Valley Road. Once at the small community of Deckers (about 27 miles), continue south on CO 67 for 8.7 miles and turn right (west) onto Abbey Avenue at the small community of Westcreek. If coming from Colorado Springs, take US 24 to Woodland Park and then head north on CO-67 for 14.1 miles from its intersection with US-24 and turn left (west).

Once on Abbey Avenue, go 0.2 miles to a T-intersection at a stop sign, and turn left. Drive 0.5 miles to a volunteer firefighter station, and turn right onto Stump Road/CR-68. Drive 2.0 miles and take the first right past Sheep's Nose onto Nine-J Road. Follow this for 5.2 miles to where the road ends at two gated driveways and park on the left, being sure to not block either gate.

From the parking lot, head straight West to pick up a trail that heads North 40 yards off the side of the road. Follow this over the gentle hills until it slopes down to meet the road after it turns. Do not head down the road, but instead continue North on the old two-track road for a bit. After several hundred yards, spot a climber's trail veering off at a 45-degree angle to the right at a stump with a cairn consisting of rocks and skulls. Take this trail as it quickly becomes more defined and heads up through the hillside towards the rocks. This trail will wind its way through the burn area and into the aspen groves. The first area you come to will be the Quarry Wall.

Parking:
Park off to the left at the end of Nine-J Road. As of July 1st, 2020: A Colorado Parks and Wildlife pass is now required to park on CPW land.

  • DO NOT BLOCK EITHER GATES*

Approach:
As of April 2020 hiking along the road is no longer preferred by the landowners, use the new trail to the West built by the PPCA. Please respect the landowners wishes and use the new trail that takes 60 seconds longer.

Dogs MUST be on leash.

All trash must be packed out. Please be responsible and clean up after yourself and dogs.
Do not drive past the gate. This is private property and only landowners vehicles are permitted.

Private Landowners:
Please do not approach private residences asking for directions or other information from Landowners. If you have a question on the area, please reach out to the Pike's Peak Climbers Alliance at PPCASouthPlatte@gmail.com. We are more than happy to answer any questions you may have.

Per Adam bloc: a new PPCA trail hikes to the left of the private road. I have a GPX to update the approach map. 

175 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Thunder Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 74
Let's Do It Again, Daddy
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 117
Reptile
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 148
Is This For Real?
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 48
Zorro
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 114
Reptile Tears
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 57
So Wild
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 36
Stranglehold
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 79
Powder Monkey
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 51
Real Black Velvet
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 34
Chocolate Thunder
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 75
Storm
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 76
The G Route
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 44
Reality Check
Trad
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 21
The Rodeo
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 59
Starlight
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Let's Do It Again, Daddy Alligator Lounge
 74
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Reptile Brown Wall
 117
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Is This For Real? For Real Canyon
 148
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Zorro Brown Wall
 48
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Reptile Tears Brown Wall
 114
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
So Wild For Real Canyon
 57
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Stranglehold Post Office
 36
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Powder Monkey Post Office
 79
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Real Black Velvet For Real Canyon
 51
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Chocolate Thunder Brown Wall
 34
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Storm Wasp Canyon
 75
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
The G Route Wasp Canyon
 76
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Reality Check For Real Canyon
 44
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
The Rodeo Quarry
 21
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Starlight Wasp Canyon
 59
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Thunder Ridge »

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