Be sure to park off to the left at the gated driveway (avoid blocking the gate). There is a metal sign that shows a map with property lines, but basically WALK the road. DO NOT drive it our mountain bike it. When it makes a sharp right towards a house, continue straight (I made a wooden sign on a metal stake here to point the way). Go a few hundred yards and take a climber's trail angling right (another wooden sign). The trail will lead you to the cliff.
As for camping, DO NOT camp at the parking area. You can go about 1.5 miles back up the road to where the trees are and find dispersed camping. Otherwise go back to Stump Road, go west half a mile and turn onto FS-360 (goes to Turkey Rock). There's tons of free, dispersed camping along this road.
We have worked really hard to repair landowner/climber relations and things are good now so long as people follow the above guidelines. Have a great time! The guidebook will be out this fall for the area
Patrick - I haven't totally decided to be honest. I plan to mention what areas have them and what some classics to look out for are, but I've gone back and forth about actually including all the individual boulder problems. I probably won't as enough of it is covered in all the bouldering books that are out. I realize they barely scratch the surface in what's out there, even at the "established" areas like Sheep Nose, but at the end of the day, I'm not a boulderer so I'm not sure I can do it justice.
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