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Thunder Buttress
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Thunder Buttress Route T 

Thunder Buttress Route 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Scott Kimball & Mike Covington
Page Views: 310
Submitted By: Kurt Johnson on Oct 29, 2006

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Description 

All the way at the west end of Thunder Buttress, a short way left of a low roof, look for a water-worn chimney. Climb black-streaked rock to the left of this, and continue up two pitches of grooved low-angled rock, trending right and taking the line of least resistance, until you arrive at a large ledge at the base of the headwall arete or ridge. You can easily walk off west from here.

Follow the arete for two more longer pitches, looking for the crux roof at the end of the third pitch. Because it's not climbed much, the route is lichenous, sometimes loose, and somewhat difficult to follow.

Location 

To descend, traverse the fourth class ridge north until you get to easier ground, heading down the west gully.

Protection 

Standard rack


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By semicolin1
Aug 7, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The first two pitches would be a 3-star 5.6 route and then walking off to the west. The top pitches were so-so. P1 for us started 1/2 way between the low roof and chimney (not quite as described above) - 5.6 (PG-13) face/slab climbing with flakes and knobs interspersed and worked our way right and under a bulge, about 150' and really fun for the grade. P2 5.4 or 5.5 slab climbing about 190' to a small tree. P3 (5.7) up vertical fissures that sounded a bit hollow to base of a left-curving dihedral. P4 (5.7) left up a short (15') squeeze chimney and stepped left around the roof & continued over crumbly granite to the very top of the buttress. Adventure climbing for sure with some interesting scrambling to get off. Gear to 4" was helpful.