At a mere forty feet, half of which is approach climbing, this diminutive line packs a surprising punch. Scramble up the somewhat silly start, clipping three bolts, to obtain a large ledge. Grapple with the first crux before transitioning left to the arete for a few shakes. Fire for the chains through ever more desperate moves and be prepared as this one isn't over until the chains are at your waist.
The climbing on this route is unlike its neighbors. Deep horizontals punctuate thin edges. The start and first crux are a bit sharp but the movement is interesting and sustained.
This route is located immediately right of Air Monsters. It is the rightmost line on North Fin proper and ascends Nancy's Thumb Tower.
6 bolts to ring anchors
Desperate moves lead to the chains, which I shamef...
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Apr 1, 2014
Funny story John. A buddy of mine had pretty long draws on those anchors after his first run. Thus he could avoid making the last move on a top rope. I clipped them short when I went up. He took a good whipper and was pretty pissed until he saw the humor in it. I think he saw the humor in it.
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 1, 2014
Ha! I am not sure I would be able to clip even with shoulder length draws. My tactic for next time is shorter draws that I will just clip at my waist. The fall isn't very far and totally clean, just desperate. The finish really makes the route so it would be shame to avoid it.
Thanks for the name and FA info.
|By Angel Mangual|
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
May 25, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
This route felt as hard or maybe harder than Air Monster.