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 ADVANCED
North Fin
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5 O'Clock Shadow S 
Agatha Christie (Direct) T,TR 
Air Monsters S 
Billionaire Boys Club T 
Close Shave T 
Edge of Da-light, The T 
Genevive S 
Get Low 
Gladiator T 
Hai Karate T,TR 
Histoplasmosis T 
Killer Whale S,TR 
Nang S 
Noodler S 
Rocket Science S 
Skin Bracer T 
Slippery When Wet T 
Thumbs Up S 
Tree Monsters S 
Writer's Cramp T 

Thumbs Up 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA:  Dean Brault, Eric Fazio-Rhicard, & Cres Snyder (2003)
Season: Shade Starting Mid-Morning
Page Views: 195
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Mar 31, 2014

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Preparing to clip the fourth bolt.

Description 

At a mere forty feet, half of which is approach climbing, this diminutive line packs a surprising punch. Scramble up the somewhat silly start, clipping three bolts, to obtain a large ledge. Grapple with the first crux before transitioning left to the arete for a few shakes. Fire for the chains through ever more desperate moves and be prepared as this one isn't over until the chains are at your waist.

The climbing on this route is unlike its neighbors. Deep horizontals punctuate thin edges. The start and first crux are a bit sharp but the movement is interesting and sustained.

Location 

This route is located immediately right of Air Monsters. It is the rightmost line on North Fin proper and ascends Nancy's Thumb Tower.

Protection 

6 bolts to ring anchors


Photos of Thumbs Up Slideshow Add Photo
Desperate moves lead to the chains, which I shamef...
Desperate moves lead to the chains, which I shamef...

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By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 1, 2014

Funny story John. A buddy of mine had pretty long draws on those anchors after his first run. Thus he could avoid making the last move on a top rope. I clipped them short when I went up. He took a good whipper and was pretty pissed until he saw the humor in it. I think he saw the humor in it.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 1, 2014

Ha! I am not sure I would be able to clip even with shoulder length draws. My tactic for next time is shorter draws that I will just clip at my waist. The fall isn't very far and totally clean, just desperate. The finish really makes the route so it would be shame to avoid it.

Thanks for the name and FA info.
By Angel Mangual
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
May 25, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route felt as hard or maybe harder than Air Monster.
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
1 day ago

I agree with Angel.