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The Thumb Area
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Thumbing To Bogota T 
Unsorted Routes:

Thumbing To Bogota 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1-2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1-2 [details]
FA: James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, June 21 2006
New Route: Yes
Season: Anytime
Page Views: 1,249
Submitted By: James Garrett on Jul 7, 2006

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At the bottom of the block two pitches from the to...

Description 

The crux is on the top, this ascends the East Face of The Thumb. It was my understanding that this Summit Block had never before been climbed in its entirety from the East Side to the top of the Thumb. We climbed it over two days with a bivy below the Block. It was an adventure which did not exclude quite a bit of gardening and pruning done on the lower pitches...which actually may be the crux. Climb many pitches in the gully to the right of the Matrix which has been the standard horror descent route for the Thumb. Some belays left in place, but this is a lot of terrain, so one hint at finding and staying on route is to start and continue up a buttress/arete type formation just up hill from The Plumbline route. Lots of 4th class and easy 5th down low. Head to the right side of the block and follow occasional bolts and fixed pitons to a steep hand crack in a right facing dihedral. Free climb up phenomenal knobs and patina to the very summit. These last pitches are the bread and butter of the route.

Hitching a ride to Bogota from the East, one would experience the jungle adventure/thrash just before reaching the beautiful clear mountain terrain and vistas that awaits.

Location 

Rappel anchors were installed from the Thumb Summit Block that go down toward S-Crack. it was our desire to establish adequate and easy rap stations all the way down to the bottom of the Thumb gully...the start of all Thumb routes. Chain still needs to be installed on these great rappel stations. Chain is already in on the top and the raps from the mangy tree have been eliminated.

Protection 

All pitons used have been left fixed, but it takes a standard rack surprisingly well. All bolts left with hangers. Necessary, but easy to establish the belays.


Photos of Thumbing To Bogota Slideshow Add Photo
Amazing to have Newspaper delivery waking up at the bivy!
Amazing to have Newspaper delivery waking up at th...
A look up at the line from low down. The next pitches continue up the right skyline "arete" to the Thumb Summit block.
A look up at the line from low down. The next pitc...
The East Face Of The Thumb
The East Face Of The Thumb
The ritual smashing of the cans before leaving the Bivy.
The ritual smashing of the cans before leaving the...
Emerging from the jungle on Thumbing To Bogota
Emerging from the jungle on Thumbing To Bogota
The obligatory bivy bbq on Thumbing To Bogota
The obligatory bivy bbq on Thumbing To Bogota

Comments on Thumbing To Bogota Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 7, 2006

James Thanks for adding those well-needed rap stations on the Thumb. Now, I can do the summit pitch.
By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
Jul 7, 2006

"Rappel anchors were installed from the Thumb Summit Block that go down toward S-Crack. it was our desire to establish adequate and easy rap stations all the way down to the bottom of the Thumb gully...the start of all Thumb routes."

Just when I thought I would never summit the thumb again - "thanks" is not enough.
By Craig Martin
From: Park City
Sep 13, 2006

Wow! This is definitely adventure climbing. I am still trying to get the dirt out of... well, everywhere. I don't know if I was off route or what but most of the lower pitches are quite shitty. Main difficulty down low was just finding good rock without bushes and trees sticking out everywhere, again, this could be a personal problem with route finding. Also, protection opportunities seemed few and far between on most of the lower pitches. I did find a nice trough type feature (5.6) on I believe pitch 6. The last two pitches are much better, and make up for most of the suffering encountered to get there.

I didn't really enjoy this route but sometimes that isn't the important part or even the goal when we go climbing. Great work James. Thanks for the rappel stations also.
By James Garrett
Sep 16, 2006

Did you free the upper pitches, Craig? Yea, it is a adventure dirt fest in places, for sure
By Craig Martin
From: Park City
Sep 17, 2006

I free climbed everything up to the last pitch. I found a tricky spot past a lone bolt on pitch 7, I thought this might be harder than 10 a/b, but I am not real good at the rating game. I did find the vertical forest pitch, nice ckickenheads and moves, I liked this pitch the most so your hard work has payed off, at least for me. On the last pitch I found it pretty hard getting past the second bolt and resorted to aid. Freed most of the splitter crack with chickenheads in the middle of the pitch, got scared and aided most of the handcrack in dihedral, and freed to the top. Nothing I free climbed on the last pitch was any harder than 10-, but freeing past the second bolt will be harder!
By James Garrett
Sep 18, 2006

I agree it will be harder. I was happy that I could get away with placing so FEW bolts on the last pitches...I expected to be compelled to drill more. That is so cool you found the vertical forest pitch.
It's cool you got the second ascent, I appreciated your comments.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Nov 27, 2008

Could we get a topo/beta pic?