Throwing the Baby Out With the Bath
|79 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb & Peter Spindloe, 6/29/03|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Jun 29, 2003|
Throwing the Baby Out With The Bath... an old expression for not tossing the good out with the bad.This route was the first known route on Millennium Crag and is deserving of one star due to it's 2 good cruxes, both nice sections of finger crack. The line was initially quite lichened at the first crux, and full of dirt, but this was cleaned by the FA party with good result. A good brushing could still be used, but even in it's current condition, it is a good line.The route is somewhat runout in spots, and though each crux protects well enough to be reasonable, it's not a good route for a climber near their limit or even a strong beginner.
From the low point of the crag (NE corner) walk up about 50+ meters- you will see a few identifying features. First is a low overhang, perhaps 5M off of the ground. Up 20M, growing horizontally out under an overhang, then vertically is a large conifer, that is distinguished by it's forked trunk. There is a single loop of black 9/16" supertape in it from the rap we did to reach the ground. Additionally, you will note a vertical section with a very shallow left facing corner, bearing an excellent fingercrack.
To climb this route, start up under the initial overhang and turn it at the right edge. Cams up under the flake might be used to protect this. Run up easy climbing to the fingercrack up and right, set some perfect stoppers and continue up through the first crux, topping out of this fingercrack., then head up and slightly left, perhaps 10' right of the big forked pine, onto a good ledge. This false summit gives way to a good finish above. Two solid cracks appear. To the left is a leaning fingercrack that tops out at another crux (5.9 again) and protects reasonably well. Belay with 1.5-2.5" cams in a crack up and right of the top-out of the climb. To the right of the 5.9 finish from this ledge is a variation we called "Not Worth It (5.5)" that was hand and fist crack through to the top, which does not have a particularly good belay above it.
To descend, walk down to the NE about 5 meters, scramble down to a few trees, stem back to the West though a giant "hallway" behind a giant flake. You have arrived back on the ledge below the two optional finishes... now scramble down and then left to the big forked pine tree below the bulge and rap off of it. There is presently one good tied sling, and no rap ring or quicklink. The anchor should be back up and quicklink added. (Sorry, I was out.)
A standard light rack. Medium nuts protect the first crux, and Small cams are best in the second.