This rig is a true classic and an odd one for Josh. There are no real face holds, knobs, or crumbly edges to help you. It is overhanging, somewhat flared and leaning.
The rock is very good at the bottom, to the point of being slick inside the crack. Higher up the rock starts to deteriorate, but alas, I never got there... denied!
This route might be the best OW I have seen or tried in Josh.
more info here: WideFetish.com
This route is approached much the same way as Kamikaze. Approach time is about 40 minutes if coming in from the road, and not the Split Rock parking area. When you get to the Beak Boulder rocks, skirt the crag to climbers right, instead of left towards Kamikaze. This route is about 150 feet left of Kamikaze. Go up towards the top of the formation where the arrows are in the beta pic. Up on the false summit there will be a point where you can crawl through a giant multiheaded Yucca. Down and right goes to the base of the route, and up and left will get you on the summit. There are two bolts on top for the toprope.
For the lead, not saying that has been done, you will need a few #6 Wild Country cams, and then some stuff to about 3" to finish off to the summit.
For the TR, a couple of slings and biners will do the trick. Two bolt anchor on top.
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Mar 21, 2009
Dont go to Russ' site for the same old photos. For real entertainment, check out the uncut video of this bruiser!