Throbbing Gristle
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 8 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | (TR) Alan Nelson, 1983; First Lead: Sean Villanueva Odriscoll, 2014 (?) |
Page Views: | 5,839 total · 32/month |
Shared By: | Russ Walling on Mar 20, 2009 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This rig is a true classic and an odd one for Josh. There are no real face holds, knobs, or crumbly edges to help you. It is overhanging, somewhat flared and leaning.
The rock is very good at the bottom, to the point of being slick inside the crack. Higher up the rock starts to deteriorate, but alas, I never got there... denied!
This route might be the best OW I have seen or tried in Josh.
more info here: WideFetish.com
The rock is very good at the bottom, to the point of being slick inside the crack. Higher up the rock starts to deteriorate, but alas, I never got there... denied!
This route might be the best OW I have seen or tried in Josh.
more info here: WideFetish.com
Location
This route is approached much the same way as Kamikaze. Approach time is about 40 minutes if coming in from the road, and not the Split Rock parking area. When you get to the Beak Boulder rocks, skirt the crag to climbers right, instead of left towards Kamikaze. This route is about 150 feet left of Kamikaze. Go up towards the top of the formation where the arrows are in the beta pic. Up on the false summit there will be a point where you can crawl through a giant multiheaded Yucca. Down and right goes to the base of the route, and up and left will get you on the summit. There are two bolts on top for the toprope.
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