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South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Nasty Gash 
A Song & A Prayer 
Crocodile Rock 
Hot Fudge Thursday 
Joanne of Arch 
Jubilant Song 
Marion's Melody 
St. Stephen 
Western Swing 
Windy Corner 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type: Trad, 8 pitches, 800', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: John Wilder, Larry DeAngelo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 285
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Sep 17, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The right side of the south face of Windy Peak.

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Start in a low angle crack halfway between Ain't No Saint and Saint Stephen; climb up to an easy ramp. The second pitch goes up easy rock to a belay beneath a steep section of the ramp. Climb the steep section, then a crack system on the main wall to your left. A short rappel takes you to a good belay position in the gully at the base of a varnished wall. Sustained climbing along the left crack leads to a belay in the broken rock above. Then routefind up and left for two pitches, aiming for the left end of the large overhang capping this section of the face. Go left around the overhang and climb a long friction pitch with somewhat limited protection. Work out the best belay you can when you can get gear. Continue up the waterstreak and move right when reaching the headwall. Belay on a small perch just below the summit ridge. Fourth class leads to the top.


Follow the normal approach to the south face of Windy Peak.


Standard rack

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