|Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch)
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This prominent arete is certainly the most photogenic climb in the area, with terrific views of Mount Washington in the distance. About 60 Feet to the right of Standard Route, Thriller climbs the intimidating overhanging arete, following it up and right. Start on the right side of the arete, eventually making your way around the corner to holds the left. Eventually a jug can be reached near the top where you can shake out and consider the top out. Breaking left from this jug is a variation of the original route, and clocks in at 5.10a. Either way, the climbing is pumpy and sequential all the way to the jug.
60 feet the the right of Standard Route, and left of the Chimney and Blockheads, Thriller Arete climbs the obvious steep arete.
Takes mostly smaller cams and nuts
|By patrick donahue|
From: Gunnison, Colorado
May 1, 2010
is it possible to set this up as a top rope?
|By Jeb Bruno|
Apr 17, 2012
How is the gear on this climb?
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Apr 17, 2012
Good gear right up to the top with some pump.Small cams and a couple wires. Double up at the rest so you can just fire to the top.
|By chris magness|
Jun 25, 2012
Gear is good, but hard to place and the rock is quite broken. Look for a blue (#1) TCU or Mastercam in a hidden horizontal near the top. Punch it from here.
Top roping this route is possible by climbing up the Standard Route face via a 5.6 finger crack on the right side to a horizontal which will take finger sized gear for an anchor. You'll need to rig a few directionals too. That said, this route really a lead climb.
|By burlap submariner|
Jan 27, 2013
agreed chris, the gear isnt super straight forward but not too devious.
the exposure on this route is awesome for a single pitch. If you can do this route you should climb the first 15 feet of the chimney route then bust left following a pumpy thin crack to the top, not sure what the route name is but its a little harder but super fun.