Three's a Crowd
||Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane, 1981|
|Season: ||Autumn, when not closed or snowed in|
|Page Views: ||454|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 1, 2007|
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The first pitch of this route is, to date, the best pitch on the wall, but of the second and third pitch options, the ones done to date are not quite as good. 2-stars as listed here, but alternate pitches for P2/P3 might make this a 3-star route.
P1, (5.10a, 90'): Climb up the initial hand to fist crack past a small tree and through the overhang (10a). The corner flip-flops and becomes left-facing as the crack gets wider (fists, 5.8) and then wider still (#4 Camalot to OW). CLimb through the OW (5.9) and onto a shelf to belay on huge boulders or gear. Move the belay back on this massive shelf/ledge to the base of the wall for P2.
P2, (5.9, 110'): Climb up the right-most of 2 cracks that leads up into the right-side of a dark brown inset capped by a roof (5.7?). A huge bird-poo stain (white) can be seen in this inset, but you don't climb through it. When you reach a spot below the roof where a right-hand traverse is obvious (perhaps 15 meters up?) traverse right to the side (5.7, use long slings on gear) and into a right-facing corner with good protection. Climb this corner (5.8) to the top and then go up and left to a crack and flake that climbs up under a bulge- this feels like a juggy but sharp hand traverse (5.9) and then once above that, finish to a shelf one of two ways... left up a good crack (5.8) or right past a bulge with a jug and into an off-fingers, overhanging crack (5.10a). Belay on the ledge above.
P3: (moderate, 100' (?length?)) Pick a crack system and continue to a large ledge with large trees and belay.
You can rap a line not far from this route on fixed slings with rings.
No more than a hundred meters down and right (south) of the north end of the West Face of Sunset Rock, there is a block that juts out close to the ground, creating a bulge with a right-facing dihedral on its right side. You will see and hand-to-first crack going up this corner past a bulge about 10 meters up. That is the start to 'Solar Power.'
A standard light rack of nuts and cams with some longer slings. An optional #4 Camalot will make the top of P1 feel more secure but is not necessary.
By Jason Haas
Jul 29, 2008
This route is called Three's a Crowd. FA: David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane 1981.