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Routes in Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6)
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Bob's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Burning Down the House S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Completion Backword Principle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Eldorado Gold S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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In Plain View S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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King of Pain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mind Control S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Opus 73 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Peri-less Journey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Powder Finger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Riding With the King S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Three-Stage Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Top Down Design S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter, solo. |
| Page Views: | 679 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Klammer on Apr 23, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
This is A.K.A. Trundler's Paradise.
This route ascends the low angle ramp that cuts left to right across the face towards the western end of Ridge 6. Easy climbing but extremely loose rock and equivalently shaky pro make this a fun, adventure climb. It is not uncommon on this route to be standing on large masses of rubble piled on the ledge. I pushed off a couple of microwave-sized blocks on my way across, but there are still many left for future parties to have their way with.
The ramp ends with a short hand crack to a rubble-filled slot. Once making it out of the slot without crushing your toes, head right to find a the two bolt anchor above "Completion Backward Principle". With some creativity, it is possible to rap from here with a 60m rope. (Swing right approximately 50' down to reach an intermediate anchor.)
This route ascends the low angle ramp that cuts left to right across the face towards the western end of Ridge 6. Easy climbing but extremely loose rock and equivalently shaky pro make this a fun, adventure climb. It is not uncommon on this route to be standing on large masses of rubble piled on the ledge. I pushed off a couple of microwave-sized blocks on my way across, but there are still many left for future parties to have their way with.
The ramp ends with a short hand crack to a rubble-filled slot. Once making it out of the slot without crushing your toes, head right to find a the two bolt anchor above "Completion Backward Principle". With some creativity, it is possible to rap from here with a 60m rope. (Swing right approximately 50' down to reach an intermediate anchor.)
Location
Start as for "Opus 73", at the base of the dirty and broken, right-facing corner. Head right across the ramp.
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