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Three Sheets To The Wind  

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: EFR,Doug Cornick, Chelsea Cook,Geir Hundal,'09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 658
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 16, 2009
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Description 

This route has a cool crux move and the bolt will keep you well off the ledge. The second ledge doesn't come into play as the lack of holds forces you on to the overhanging face. Great stances before each of the 3 hard sections mean you don't have to be an enduro king. I say stances but really it is the ground where you start and the two ledges you can completely recover on.


Location 

Starts just left of the fat crack that is left of the Fish. It is about 10 feet right and just around the corner from Welcome to Milagrosa


Protection 

Bolts



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Three Sheets to the Wind (February 2014)
BETA PHOTO: Three Sheets to the Wind (February 2014)
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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 16, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

This climb is marvelous! Can't believe it went unnoticed for so long. :)

By Jimbo
Apr 3, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

A devious crimpy crux ruined my onsight. Oh the humanity!!

While the top 15 feet seems contrived when you first arrive at the stance, when you do the moves you discover they are the best moves in the canyon.

Reach is a plus on this one.

I'd have bolted the bottom differently but this is what happens when Rhicard takes out his Bosche without me.

Solid two stars, Geir's right, how did this line get overlooked.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 15, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

It's not unsafe, but you'd probably want your belayer on their toes for the crux moves. On the second ledge up high, it's easy to forget the bolt is even there, don't forget to peek around the corner and clip it.