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Cactus Cliff
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Utter To A Scream 
Wadsworth Boulevard 
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Three-Quarter Ton 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Musso, Rick Thompson, 2001
Page Views: 2,907
Submitted By: Kenneth Noisewater on Mar 27, 2006
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Mike leading Three-Quarter Ton.


This is a new route in between Fantasia and Pick Pocket (aka Man-tasia). Start on a giant, leaning flake and climb up a crack system, then move right on to face sequences. There is a great no-hands rest halfway.

It allows setup of TR for Pick Pocket.


This is left and above Pick Pocket.


11 bolts.

Photos of Three-Quarter Ton Slideshow Add Photo
Cactus Cliff - Left (1) <br /> <br />Man-tasia is now named Pick Pocket.
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Left (1)

Man-tasia is now named Pi...
Mike on the lower section of Three-Quarter Ton.
Mike on the lower section of Three-Quarter Ton.
Meaghan approaches the anchors.
Meaghan approaches the anchors.
Comments on Three-Quarter Ton Add Comment
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By Michael Walker
From: Loveland, CO
Oct 15, 2007

The new guidebook says "spicy, yet well protected" up top. There wasn't anything spicy about it, but it was very good. Of the 6 5.10s we did in the area, this was the consensus best.

By Aeon Aki
Mar 14, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

This really is one of the best 5.10s at Shelf. Great movement on good rock with nice stances and increasingly more difficult climbing as you go. Watch out for the microwave-sized Death Block near the last bolt. It is completely detached and is being held in there by nothing but dirt. It would be a public service to trundle that thing before it comes off unexpectedly and crashes into the belayer, dog, or toddler cage that may be staged below the route. It is easy enough to avoid but be careful!

By LmsCo
Oct 18, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Did a chunk come off of this route just below the anchors, to the right? Looks like there's something missing up there, and sure felt like it, too. Doesn't look like it was the block Aeon mentioned, but does look like a recent rockfall.

By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Full ton of fun, though I give it a 10b--felt at least a grade easier, less committing, than Blackman's just around the corner. (Though I went far left, where the chalk runs, at the anchors. Did I cheat?)

Still, a wild ride--definitely worth doin'....

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 30, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Great route. Pumpy. Excellent movement.