Three-Quarter Ton 

The new guidebook says "spicy, yet well protected" up top. There wasn't anything spicy about it, but it was very good. Of the 6 5.10s we did in the area, this was the consensus best.

This really is one of the best 5.10s at Shelf. Great movement on good rock with nice stances and increasingly more difficult climbing as you go. Watch out for the microwave-sized Death Block near the last bolt. It is completely detached and is being held in there by nothing but dirt. It would be a public service to trundle that thing before it comes off unexpectedly and crashes into the belayer, dog, or toddler cage that may be staged below the route. It is easy enough to avoid but be careful!

Did a chunk come off of this route just below the anchors, to the right? Looks like there's something missing up there, and sure felt like it, too. Doesn't look like it was the block Aeon mentioned, but does look like a recent rockfall.

Full ton of fun, though I give it a 10b--felt at least a grade easier, less committing, than Blackman's just around the corner. (Though I went far left, where the chalk runs, at the anchors. Did I cheat?)

Still, a wild ride--definitely worth doin'....

Great route. Pumpy. Excellent movement.