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> Black Jack Boulder
Three of Clubs
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 0.5 from 2
votes
Routes in The Black Jack Boulder
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Black Jack Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+ |
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Hour Glass Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Eyed Jack T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A R |
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Queen of Spades T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Rain Man V4 6B |
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Space Between, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Suicide Kings T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Three of Clubs TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | TR, 35 ft (11 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,046 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on May 30, 2013 |
| Admins: | Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
a few words: Pumpy, crimpy, tricky, loose, weird, obscure...
This is a very interesting route.
While the climbing is fine and even fun in parts it is very tricky logistically and that takes away from the route. Most would say it takes all of the fun out of it but i think that would be a bit much.
How can a TR be tricky logistically? Well normally top rope routes climb up but this one starts up the left side of the face, then at 15 feet or so it bangs a sharp right and traverses 25+ feet clear across the boulder to a crux sequence moving to the top right side of the boulder. There is a hard part on the lower left end and another on the upper right. Basically, the only way i feel it can be done safely is to rig the anchor on the right and try to find a directional piece somewhere in the traverse section.
When i tried it the other day i put my anchor right in the middle but i felt like if i fell low on the route i would swing in to the ground and on the upper crux my rope would be 10 feet straight out to my left causing a dangerous swing.
This is a very interesting route.
While the climbing is fine and even fun in parts it is very tricky logistically and that takes away from the route. Most would say it takes all of the fun out of it but i think that would be a bit much.
How can a TR be tricky logistically? Well normally top rope routes climb up but this one starts up the left side of the face, then at 15 feet or so it bangs a sharp right and traverses 25+ feet clear across the boulder to a crux sequence moving to the top right side of the boulder. There is a hard part on the lower left end and another on the upper right. Basically, the only way i feel it can be done safely is to rig the anchor on the right and try to find a directional piece somewhere in the traverse section.
When i tried it the other day i put my anchor right in the middle but i felt like if i fell low on the route i would swing in to the ground and on the upper crux my rope would be 10 feet straight out to my left causing a dangerous swing.
4 Comments