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Three Little Birds 

Three Little Birds 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Karl Kiser, Garth Magee & Steve Hattenbach, Fall 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 260
Submitted By: Karl Kiser on Sep 25, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Three Little Birds, second pitch arete

Description 

two pitches, 1 (60 feet)-5.7+ trad, gear; 2 (95 feet)-5.9+ trad, mixed.


Location 

the climb starts up a crack on the north face of the Redeemer (left of Rastafari) just right of a large bush and goes to a west facing ledge. the second pitch goes directly above the belay in a crack system to a large ledge then up the arete (bolts) to a second ledge. rap the route.


Protection 

moderate trad rack, one set cams to hand, wired nuts, minimum of eight 24" runners. bolted anchors and rap station at the end of each pitch.



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By Steve Hattenbach
Sep 27, 2011

Fun and varied climbing. The lower pitch offers short sections of varied climbing including small roofs, finger and hand cracks and good gear. The second pitch has a great arete with face climbing that will get your attention. Good rock.

By Karl Kiser
Sep 27, 2011

The second pitch arete of this climb can be easily seem from the top of Estrellita.

Hill (3rd edition, 1993) p 160 describes an old climb (Northwest Corner). This new climb likely shares the "awkward alove" section. But the old climb starts below and right of Three Little Birds crosses TLB and finishes left in dirty climbing.