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Three Fingered Jack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,559
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Apr 4, 2004
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Description 

This route climbs up a crack system on the mid- left side, and is the crack just left of the dihedral to roof route called Snake Byte (5.11b). It can be indentified as a single crack on the ground, which turns into a system of two cracks about 20 feet off the ground, and then turns into a 3 crack system about 40 feet up.

The crux is either the lower crack, or the middle double crack section, depending on how big your hands are.

All protection is solid on this route, and there is almost always a good lock just where you need it.


Protection 

Gear to 1 1/2" in the bottom 2/3 of the route, and anything goes up top.



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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Nov 25, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Great route with good gear. A nice warmup for Rawhide.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 18, 2007

Good route, maybe a tad soft for .10b...?

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Apr 2, 2009

Cool... nothing too challenging, as long as you're proficient with finger locks.

By danielwhore
Oct 23, 2011

Agree that it felt soft for 5.10b - the 5.10a just to the left of this was more a strenuous lead in my opinion. Good stances for placing gear at the start, wasn't ever worried about protecting the opening moves. Very cool finger locks going through the top half of the route - highly recommended!