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Three Easy Pieces 
Victim of Love 

Three Easy Pieces 

5.11a

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
FA: Scott Stevenson 1988
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Nuria cruising the traverse moves.

Photo by Jay K...


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Description 

The name says it all.Three Easy Pieces three bolts and lots of nice climbing for a short climb. This is my favorite climb at the Upper Vadar crag. The moves are fun and the holds are good for the most part.
A good first 5.11 if you are just breaking in to the grade (as long as you like steep stuff).


Location 

Climbs the far left arete. From the easier climbs walk down and left around the corner to the steep face follow the left-most line of bolts.


Protection 

3 bolts to anchor. Stick clip the first bolt.



Photos of Three Easy Pieces Slideshow Add Photo
Working out the moves on Three Easy Pieces 1 of 3

BETA PHOTO: Working out the moves on Three Easy Pieces 1 of 3

Working out the moves on Three Easy Pieces <br />2 of 3

BETA PHOTO: Working out the moves on Three Easy Pieces
2 of 3


Working out the moves on Three Easy Pieces <br />3 of 3

BETA PHOTO: Working out the moves on Three Easy Pieces
3 of 3


I'm climbing 3 easy pieces....

I'm climbing 3 easy pieces....

starting up 3EP... fun... almost to the crux...

starting up 3EP... fun... almost to the crux...

cruising the JUGS...

cruising the JUGS...

rachet flashing (not like that, you perv)...

rachet flashing (not like that, you perv)...

It's a butt shot, but it gives good perspective on the route....

It's a butt shot, but it gives good perspective on...

jared coming around the corner

jared coming around the corner

Jakob around crux-time

Jakob around crux-time

Jakob

Jakob

Jakob styling the cross over around the corner...

Jakob styling the cross over around the corner...

one more of jakob

one more of jakob


Comments on Three Easy Pieces Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 2, 2007
rating: 5.11a

I agree with you Lee, this climb is a good one for the 5.10 climber to use to break into the 5.11 grades. Its shouldery style and powerful pinch and pulling moves lend themself to the gym climber looking to become an outdoor 5.11 climber.

By BTodd
May 26, 2008

this is an awesome climb. It took a little creativity to get a good stance for the second bolt.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 29, 2010

Where is the crux on this? by looking at the pictures it looks like it is before the steep stuff, am I correct?

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jan 29, 2010
rating: 5.11a

"When I was strong" I used to think 11a was a little generous, but acceptable. Re-climbing it recently, I think it's a great route for anyone looking to break into 11's. For me, the moves coming around the corner (Photo) were the crux. The top is overhung, but on grity, big holds.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 29, 2010

Thanks Jeffrey!

By S. Neoh
Sep 5, 2010
rating: 5.10d

Equipped with big beefy ring bolts. Just wish it was longer.