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Three Easy Pieces 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Scott Stevenson 1988
Page Views: 2,593
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Nuria cruising the traverse moves. Photo by Jay K...

Description 

The name says it all.Three Easy Pieces three bolts and lots of nice climbing for a short climb. This is my favorite climb at the Upper Vadar crag. The moves are fun and the holds are good for the most part.
A good first 5.11 if you are just breaking in to the grade (as long as you like steep stuff).

Location 

Climbs the far left arete. From the easier climbs walk down and left around the corner to the steep face follow the left-most line of bolts.

Protection 

3 bolts to anchor. Stick clip the first bolt.


Photos of Three Easy Pieces Slideshow Add Photo
It's a butt shot, but it gives good perspective on...
It's a butt shot, but it gives good perspective on...
Finishing the juggy upper section on Three Easy Pi...
Finishing the juggy upper section on Three Easy Pi...
Working out the moves on Three Easy Pieces 3 of 3
BETA PHOTO: Working out the moves on Three Easy Pieces 3 of 3
Working out the moves on Three Easy Pieces 2 of 3
BETA PHOTO: Working out the moves on Three Easy Pieces 2 of 3
Jakob around crux-time
Jakob around crux-time
Jakob styling the cross over around the corner...
Jakob styling the cross over around the corner...
Working out the moves on Three Easy Pieces 1 of 3
BETA PHOTO: Working out the moves on Three Easy Pieces 1 of 3
I'm climbing 3 easy pieces....
I'm climbing 3 easy pieces....
jared coming around the corner
jared coming around the corner
starting up 3EP... fun... almost to the crux...
starting up 3EP... fun... almost to the crux...
Jakob
Jakob
cruising the JUGS...
cruising the JUGS...
one more of jakob
one more of jakob
rachet flashing (not like that, you perv)...
rachet flashing (not like that, you perv)...

Comments on Three Easy Pieces Add Comment
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 2, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I agree with you Lee, this climb is a good one for the 5.10 climber to use to break into the 5.11 grades. Its shouldery style and powerful pinch and pulling moves lend themself to the gym climber looking to become an outdoor 5.11 climber.
By BTodd
May 26, 2008

this is an awesome climb. It took a little creativity to get a good stance for the second bolt.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 29, 2010

Where is the crux on this? by looking at the pictures it looks like it is before the steep stuff, am I correct?
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jan 29, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

"When I was strong" I used to think 11a was a little generous, but acceptable. Re-climbing it recently, I think it's a great route for anyone looking to break into 11's. For me, the moves coming around the corner (Photo) were the crux. The top is overhung, but on grity, big holds.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 29, 2010

Thanks Jeffrey!
By S. Neoh
Sep 5, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Equipped with big beefy eye bolts. Just wish it was longer.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Nov 4, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Really fun, kinda like a shorter Social Outcast, and about equally annoying, but not terribly hard to clean.

IMO, the best way to clean it is to tram in (belay loop/rope), then clean the 4th, and 3rd draw, then clip the tram draw to the second bolt draw, lean over, clean the first, then pull on a bit and pop the second draw out. The cleaner will take a 4-5ft swing, and the belayer just needs a solid stance. It's nothing bad, and does no harm to the rope. And unlike it's bigger brother Social, there's no trees in the way ;) - I say this because someone left their first draw on, presumably because they couldn't recover it safely.
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 16, 2013

First 11 lead. Had did romancing the stone, underdog and a few other 10s the day prior. Never had any intention of leading 11 but it went clean. One difficult move low then a super pumpy jug haul to the top. Great route to break into the grade.
By The Fat Kid
Dec 11, 2013

This is a great route! I agree that the crux is the short traverse and then the crossover to come around the corner. It hasn't been mentioned, but sinking the right heel in instead of standing on the right toes made the crux a lot easier for everyone in my group.

The jugs at the end are awesome, but move quickly on a cold day otherwise your hands will go numb before you reach the chains!

Cleaning: We easily removed the first and second draws with a stick clip.