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Tabo leading P1 of Three Doves 5.8+ (Gunks, NY)
A beautiful three-star route next to Annie Oh!, Limelight, and Arrow.
P1: 80 feet of classic climbing. The guide says to start on either side of large block; the right side seems easier. Wander up the face above, passing one roof by a notch on its left then moving right under the next small roof. Make a few cruxy moves up the face above, then follow low angle climbing back left to the belay ledge. Use one of several big trees to belay.
P2: 80'. More great climbing! From the tree, follow the path of least resistance to a ledge with a smaller tree ~40 feet up and left. There's not much pro if you go straight up (but it's more fun!); otherwise, head right and then back left for easier terrain and better pro. You'll find a nice move just below a pin, then a couple of thin moves after the pin to a nice rest, under the roof. Traverse right , then up the diagonal crack/notch to the chains. This pitch wanders a lot - beware of rope drag!
The 2nd pitch has some great moves -- it's one of the nicest pitches at the Gunks.
Rappel: Two 60m ropes get you within a few feet of the ground (with stretch - watch the ends). Alternatively, a single rap brings you down to the first pitch tree, and will keep you out of the way of other climbers.
Location: About 14 minutes down the carriage road, the carriage road turns gently right where a river of white rocks meet the road.
Standard Gunks rack. Rated PG; several solid 5.8+ moves above a fixed pin of uncertain reliability.
The pin on P2 has good gear several feet below it, and can be backed up with a small micronut.
2nd pitch of Three Doves. From here, the route br...
Laurent pulling the 2nd pitch crux
Laurent on the traverse under the overhang
Virginie on 2nd pitch...
|By - - -|
May 21, 2009
Bring a #3 for the 2nd pitch.
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.8- PG13
a bit dicey on the second pitch getting to the pin. don't want to blow it here (crux), it wouldn't be pretty.
From: Morrison, CO
Jun 14, 2009
P.1 is nothin special, but p.2 is excellent, intricate face-climbing on stellar white quartzite.
|By Tim Schafstall|
From: Newark, DE
Jul 22, 2009
The rock at the Gunks is not quartzite, it's quartz conglomerate.
But it is pretty and white ;-)
Jul 24, 2009
The pin on P2 seems ok to me, it's fairly sheltered by the roof above it.
P2 is one of those where you have to carefully consider the balance between rope drag, and protecting your 2nd. If you place a piece below the roof and sling it too long, your second will be unprotected at the crux, and will only have one chance at doing it. Doubles help with this.
|By J Antin|
From: Denver, CO
Aug 10, 2009
A few moves are a little spicy. For me; the one move just before the roof on P2 got my attention the most. I absolutely love this route, a must do for any Gunks climber.
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 16, 2009
P1 was comfortable. P2 had some very thin moves on the smooth white rock. As a second, it was totally fine, not sure how I would feel about leading it. I loved the moves, it's all there, but, I suppose another season will pass before I try to lead this.
|By Dana Bartlett|
Oct 16, 2009
Just did this the other day for the first time since 1978. It seemed to be one of the easier 5.8s I have done this year. Ratings are strange.
|By Jared Danziger|
From: New York, NY
Jul 26, 2010
#3hb brassie to protect the pin on p2
|By vanishing spy|
Aug 22, 2011
#3 BD Micro Nut also backs up the 2nd pitch pin. Couldn't get my other nuts in. Astro Nuts or HBs may work too.
|By David Stowe|
Aug 24, 2011
Little brassie works well there.
From: Wakefield, RI
Oct 12, 2011
On the second pitch after the piton I went up to the roof and traversed left pulling through a 3" crack in the roof. Was burly and felt harder than 5.8 . Was I off route? I was told this was the original finish?
Oct 12, 2011
Sounds like you did the finish to Hawkeye, which according to Dick Williams is wild and 5.9+.
From: Wakefield, RI
Oct 16, 2011
That seems to make sense. Still... It was a blast! Highly recommended.
|By lin murphy|
Nov 28, 2011
before the 2nd pitch pin, I put in a #2 blue master pro cam = green alien. Might have slowed me down.
I also agree that the Gunks are classified as a quartz conglomerate, a sedimentary rather than a metamorphic rock. But, some areas, like around Arrow, seem to be micro crystalline quartz, which suggests metamorphism. I have not researched this, but believe that what may have happened is that the quartz from the sand grains and pebbles went into solution and later precipitated as micro crystalline quartz, like chalcedony or jasper. This could have happened without the entire cliff being metamorphosed.
That is why the rock is so glassy and smooth, like quartzite, e.g, Unita climbing NE of SLC.
We also noticed on Disneyland that there are faulted glassy surfaces, slickensides, between the horizontal layers. So there has been some movement horizontally between the layers that causes glassy surfaces.
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 10, 2012
The best 5.8 face pitch in the Gunks - and that's sayin' something.
Aug 25, 2012
did this today - loved it.
pin under roof on P2 seems fine. the moves to and after it are great.
|By Larry S|
Mar 29, 2013
Weird crux pro beta - rather than a micronut, a BD #10 sideways locks in a few inches below the pin. Yeah, the one side is only half making contact, but it's pretty solid. I tried a #1 DMM peanut and it was too big for that seam.