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Needle's Eye
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Needle's Eye 
Stitching The Seam 
Threading the Needle 
Unnamed Fenton Route 

Threading the Needle 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type: Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 4,009
Submitted By: Bob Kryzer on Oct 31, 2007
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me on threading the needle. photo credit: chen qun

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Start by the sign next to the Needles Eye. Climb up into the needle, set gear where needed in the chimney. Stem, and climb up on the right side, there's two bolts. After the second bolt climb left to the top anchors on top of the shoulder to the right of the summit of the needles eye formation.

Variation: Instead of traversing left after coming out of the eye, climb straight up to the top of the higher summit. This variation brings the climbing into the 5.9 range and causes lots of rope drag. However, it is still a very good climb.

Note: Climb route when low amount of noise in the parking lot is available (not Sturgis week) because climber traverses where belayer can't see climber. Use a third person to spot if needed.


Needles eye Parking lot


2 draws, small to medium nuts and cams

Photos of Threading the Needle Slideshow Add Photo
Scotty Nelson threading the needle.
Scotty Nelson threading the needle.
Bob Kryzer working it to the second bolt.
Bob Kryzer working it to the second bolt.
The Eye
The Eye
Comments on Threading the Needle Add Comment
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By Andrew Krosbakken
Aug 27, 2009

A great and classic route. just so your aware the final traverse is ballzy for the leader and second. The traverse when my brother climbed it was protected with a micro nut. Bring webbing for the top anchor to tie off the eye bolts, they stick out and you don't want to put extra force by threading the rope threw the eye of the bolt. A great climb and super fun.

By Dave Schultz
From: Everett, Washington
Jul 13, 2012

Can you climb this and rap off and clean it on the rap down? Or does a follower need to clean it? I ask because I will be climbing with my wife who will not be able to climb a 5.8+. Thanks.

By Adam J. Clark
From: Eau Claire, WI
Sep 30, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

August '13 -