Those Ol' Pitons...
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I juss climbed my first multi trad out at Tahquitz this weekend and on P3 of White Maidens Walkaway there are two old pitons for pro. Now, i find courage in knowing strength ratings. Its my own psychological... thing. Anyways, does anyone know how much an older piton like the ones placed in Tahquitz might hold? They're obviously well placed in awesome granite so that is not an issue. It's really just the age and knowing when they are getting ready to pop. Anyway to tell? Also, there are much thinner steel rings through the clip-in hole, what are the strength of these? |
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Piton strength ratings are entirely subjective and fairly impossible to test without actually pull-testing the piton in question (and destroying it, and the rock surrounding it). |
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The steel rings may be rappel rings, not designed for impacts. Rust and/or wiggling are pretty much skull and crossbones. If you can't back up these deathtraps, don't fall. |
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@Jon: |
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Jon H wrote:Piton strength ratings are entirely subjective and fairly impossible to test without actually pull-testing the piton in question (and destroying it, and the rock surrounding it). A nice, fat, non-rusty angle piton hammered home in a perfect horizontal... probably pretty strong. An old, soft iron ring piton all rusted to hell... probably shit. All the others are somewhere in between. Don't fall on them to find out!That´s about it, I did a test series a few years ago installing and pull testing over 100 pitons in different rock, both a 5/16" Lost Arrow and a 5/8" Chrome-moly angle held 31kN in a granite horizontal, the worst performer was a soft steel knife blade which only got 2kN. These were all new placements and good condition pitons, I´ve seen a rusty old one fail under the weight of a sling and several which have failed to hold the weight of the tester. I´ve also got one of those nasty ring pegs which I took out of an ab station by hand, the rock had eroded away around the placement which is a common problem on limestone. |
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as most everyone already stated essentially you never know. ive pulled out pitons that LOOKED bomber, little to no rust, solid placement (appearing) and theyve ripped easily by |
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This is pin that was on a local route, Bat Outta Hell at Pilot Mtn. It looked rusty from the outside but I don't think most people would ever have guessed it look this bad underneath. I have definitely fallen on this fairly recently, although there was a nice TCU placement very close it it. |
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This pin was at the small roof or overlap on the 1st pitch of the "Jam Crack" at Tahquitz. It pulled out when I stuck my finger in the eye and lightly pulled. Where the pin was remained a nice slot for a 0.3 Camalot.
The pin is in fine shape, but the placement was very weak. We saved someone from a very nasty surprise. |
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So is it safe to say...? |