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Altered States Gully
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A Bright Shining Lie 
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Angel's Ladder 
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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Stuart, Bret Rucman 1989
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 29, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Angel's Ladder 2) Slip Slidin' 3) Clutching a...


This route changes pace from it's neighbors, in that you are forced to use some muscles as you undercling past the roof. The gear here is pumpy and hard to place, and after turning the corner it only gets worse, as the gear is marginal at best. The section of bottomed out seams ends at the bolt and you now have to contend with gritty slab climbing. All in all a good route, that gives you variety. The crux was the undercling sequence, although one of my partners thought it was the slab move above the bolt.


Just left of Clutching at Straws, Thoroughflare climbs into an obvious roof and exits out the right side fia a thin crack for an undercling. Step back into the gully boulders and look for the one bolt above the roof.


Getting to the roof protects well with medium gear. Attaining the undercling-ing travers crack requires a couple of larger cams, followed tby the travers that takes small cams. Red Metolius, and Yellow to start it off. Around the corner a prayer is what you will need and your green Alien might work. 1 bolt is the fixed gear and it shares anchors with Clutching at Straws, so bring bail slings.

Photos of Thoroughflare Slideshow Add Photo
W/o the lines,  Sorry about the trees, I forgot my axe.
BETA PHOTO: W/o the lines, Sorry about the trees, I forgot my...
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