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Thoroughfare 

5.11a

   
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Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
FA: first lead scott stewart 1971
Submitted By: Steve Sangdahl on Mar 20, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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Rich "prunes" Bechler looking strong on the first ...

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Description 

a obvious line with great pumper climbing.also of note is L.S.D. 5.11c climb the left side of t-fare only first lead rich bechler 1984.note #2 Cross Town Traffic 5.11d/5.12a climb the right side only with a hard direct start,very pumpy to place gear first lead rich bechler dale moir and steve sangdahl 1982.


Protection 

the usual dl stuff



Photos of Thoroughfare Slideshow Add Photo
Devils Lake. Henning Boldt on Thoroughfare. October '08.

Devils Lake. Henning Boldt on Thoroughfare. Octobe...

Devils Lake. Ted Kryzer pulling the crux on Thoroughfare. October '08.

Devils Lake. Ted Kryzer pulling the crux on Thorou...

Rhoads starting up Thoroughfare.

Rhoads starting up Thoroughfare.

Rhoads getting it.

Rhoads getting it.

Vin on lead.

Vin on lead.

Jugs.

Jugs.

Vinny, eying it up.

Vinny, eying it up.

Vinny, of NU Climbing.

Vinny, of NU Climbing.

Remo and the Climbing Magazine photo that made him famous. Photo by Andrew Burr.

Remo and the Climbing Magazine photo that made him...

Ice climber "Jugs" NOT in his element! Photo by Andrew Burr.

Ice climber "Jugs" NOT in his element! Photo by An...

"Jugs" with gear. Photo by Andrew Burr.

"Jugs" with gear. Photo by Andrew Burr.

Andy Hansen placing pretty pieces.  <br /> <br /><a href='http://www.mattkuehlphoto.com/' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.mattkuehlphoto.com/</a> <br />

Andy Hansen placing pretty pieces.

www.ma...


Daniel Sans Crainte on Thoroughfare. Nov 2012.

Daniel Sans Crainte on Thoroughfare. Nov 2012.


Comments on Thoroughfare Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 13, 2005

This climb is the classic 5.11 lead in the park and an entrance exam to the harder, Devil's Lake leads.

The leader should be comfortable placing blind brassies in the right seem, all the while protected from groundfall by a sketchy pin (it actually faces downward). Upon reaching the security of a TCU slot, the climber will definately breathe a sigh of relief before tackling the crux moves.

If you can get to the TCU placement, the climb is well protected as the gear from that point on is good enough to save all the children in the world.

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 10, 2009

"a obvious line with great pumper climbing.also of note is L.S.D. 5.11c climb the left side of t-fare only first lead rich bechler 1984.note #2 Cross Town Traffic 5.11d/5.12a climb the right side only with a hard direct start,very pumpy to place gear first lead rich bechler dale moir and steve sangdahl 1982."

lolwut?

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Oct 30, 2010
rating: 5.11a

I led this today without the use of brassies and in place used 2 C3's in the right seam. This route is surprisingly pumpy! Very good route. The gear is great on this route!

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 31, 2011
rating: 5.11a

I will eat my words. The brass offsets really are a great piece to have and place on this route.

By Trad Nanny
Apr 1, 2011

I've got some offsets for sale at Boulders!

By Josh Knapp
Aug 21, 2011
rating: 5.11a PG13

Fantastic route! Great moves! But I felt the difficultly was more on par with mouses misery, and definitely easier than flake route. There really are no moves that you need to "bear down" on. The route is just technical face and with good footwork it isn't super difficult. However, the beginning is a little spooky until the bomber #4 stopper in the right seem. Then at the hand jam you can completely set your mind at ease with a perfect .4 Camalot.

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Aug 22, 2011
rating: 5.11a

To each his own, but I climbed Mouse's years before I climbed Thoroughfare, and Mouse's is only like 3-4 hard moves, besides that; 5.8. Also I haven't sent Flake Route yet because my big ass fingers have trouble fitting in some of the crimp slots. Just another reason to reinforce personal grading I guess.