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Reggie Dome
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L to R R to L Alpha
Chief, The T 
Curbside T 
Fender Bender T 
Fresh Squeezed S 
Handicapped Zone T 
Irresponsibility Lessons T 
Meter Maid T 
Mole, The S 
Ninny's Revenge T 
Pops Goes Hawaiian T 
Short Cut T 
Speed Bump T 
Sunny Delight T 
Tender Flakes of Wrath  T 
Thompson's Acne T 
Thomsons Roof T 
What A Drag It Is Getting Old S 

Thomsons Roof 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Reggie Thomson, Todd Gordon, Scott Gordon, Mike Brown & Howard Boyd, 12/85
Page Views: 426
Submitted By: Locker on Mar 24, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Thomsons Roof 5.8+ R

Description 

On the back side (Opposite "The Chief") of the Reggie Dome you will find a large roof of darker rock. To the right approx 20ft? there is a smaller roof with a crack system above it. The start is off the ground to an awkward move to the right and then a step over to the left below the roof. Going right or left at that point depending on height/weight/whatever works. A small rack is all that is needed as the climb is very, very short. 50m rope is plenty and then some. There are also a couple of other climbs not listed on this site worth looking into. A short two bolt job in the corridor to the right (Felt like maybe 5.8 at best. New I think) with great anchors to rap from. Another to the left that we did not get on yet. but looked interesting.


Protection 

Small amount of pro needed, small to medium, cams in particular in the horizontal below the roof, nuts above worked great. No anchors on top so build yourself.



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By Randy
Apr 2, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c



BTW: Locker, I'm impressed (the route description).

By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 6, 2004

Randy, did I actually give decent directions??? Wow! I must be learning. On the rating of 5.9 I posted....that's what I was told it was. That day however, the way I started off, it felt more like 5.I need to lose 5pounds.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
May 3, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

This route will test the patience of many a leaders. I could call this a R rated route as getting up the crumbling crud at the beginning is not only the crux, but after standing up, a piece of solid pro is still not available until making a move out under the roof. I tried going directly up at the roof crack before figuring out to keep heading left to a nice left facing hold above and left of the roof. After getting a hold of this with both hands, a right foot can be placed at the beginning of the roof crack itself. Fun moves at the roof itself, but I can't say the same for the moves below.

By keli
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 23, 2009

committing moves down low.
pro is good.

By Pete eye
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 30, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

sorta funky, but leaning out to plug a solid bd .4 gives some comfort in going for the roof. Taller climbers can even avoid the awkward jam just above the roof and reach above the taper for the finger lock. holds out to the left and just to the right of the crack also make for a number of ways up this thing.

Did the 5.8 2 bolt thing to 2 bolt anchor that locker refers to as well. Quick, fun, and solid climbing. Might as well if your up there.

By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 19, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Pretty crummy rock down low but great gear at the roof and above. Fun short route.