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 ADVANCED
The Egg
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Coffee and Cigarettes 
Egg Face 
Egghead 
Green Eggs and Ham 
Junglework 
Shell Shock 
Sign Language 
Sunnyside Up 
This is your Brain on Drugs 
Unknown 

This is your Brain on Drugs 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
FA: Kenny Ariza, 1999
Page Views: 1,859
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Aug 2, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: View from the trail when you first get to the beac...

Description 

This is your Brain on Drugs starts just right of the Egghead start and may even use holds from Egghead (and visa versa) depending on how you do the moves. From second bolt move right using tiny crimper to a small but good hold that you can match on. Continue right on very small hand and foot holds and up to small bulge. Go over bulge, moving up and left on small holds continuing up to anchors. This route requires strong fingers and good footwork and is very continuous with several cruxes.


Protection 

6 or 7 bolts finishing to a two bolt anchor just below the lip at the top. Be careful if setting up toprope!



Photos of This is your Brain on Drugs Slideshow Add Photo
Making the very difficult traverse move to the right...
Making the very difficult traverse move to the rig...
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By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Aug 7, 2003

I added this route because it is a great route and should be on this site!

Very continuous hard climbing the whole way mostly on very small holds. There may be only 2 or 3 holds larger than 1/2 first knuckle on the whole route! Now the confession... Although I have done all moves on the climb, it was not done with less than 1/2 dozen falls and short hangs. Because I actually got up the thing, I think the route may be 5.12b but without a single 5.12b move on it. Many, many, very hard 11 moves throughout the climb. To lead this clean will be my goal for the year and will certainly be a very satisfying accomplishment. I would certainly be curious to hear how others move from the crimper hold to the hold 4' to the right. This would be quite a wild lunge off of a tiny hold with basically no feet! I did not do it this way and my way was quite contrived to say the least... ***** in the Falcons Guide is right on!

By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Aug 7, 2003

P.S. Forgot to add... The route description in the photo shows this route ending at the Sign Language anchors. This is not the case. There are separate anchors for this climb which add a good couple of hard moves to reach!

By KP Ariza
Jul 13, 2011

First Ascent of Brain was done in '95/'96. You are a body length too high in the photo above for the traverse moves. Stay low on foot smears and lean off of a left hand sidepull crimp until you can ease over enough to latch the finger jug. Then the brain moves.....