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This is the Choss. . . A Choss Climbing Park

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Choss Factor NINE 5.9d S 
Choss Stands Alone, The S 
Chossalicious! S 
Escape from ChosAngeles S 
EuroChoss S 

This is the Choss. . . A Choss Climbing Park  


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Location: 40.7536, -111.7962 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,052
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: bus driver on Aug 16, 2011
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Description 

This is an an old quarry about a mile up Emigration Canyon that was dug, dynomited, and trundled in the 1800s for mortar and stone for use in early Salt Lake City homes then abandoned when Portland Cement became popular in about 1917.

There were ledge systems composed of loose rock suspended in dirt around the whole wall that the FAist trundled to expose a "relatively clean" and shear climbing surface.

The name sais it all. This IS the choss. . . some loose rock and the occasional broken hold just adds to the experience.

The routes are south facing and go in the shade for after work climb time. The climbing is fun and exciting in spots. The author is leaving the star ratings up to the masses.

10 draws and a rope should suffice.

Attention mattress people: There is an undone highish boulder problem left of the routes with a smallish landing pad ready to go. . . you don't have to be left out of the choss. . . Claim it to name it.

Getting There 

Residents of Salt Lake City can skip the drive down to LCC or BCC for a day and climb at the choss. Drive or ride your bike up Emigration Canyon (head east on 800 south which turns into Sunnyside Blvd. at the top of the hill) about 1 mile past Hogle Zoo and This is the Place, A Heritage Park. Park at the red "No Vehicles" sign. Rock is visible from the road. Approach is about 100 yards.

Tourists can rent bikes at the Intermodal Hub at 250 South 600 West and bus #3 will get you to Hogle Zoo from downtown. From there you can follow the directions above.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.1 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for This is the Choss. . . A Choss Climbing Park:
The Choss Stands Alone   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Chossalicious!   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Browse More Classics in This is the Choss. . . A Choss Climbing Park

Featured Route For This is the Choss. . . A Choss Climbing Park
getting to the first bolt <br />

The Choss Stands Alone 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : This is the Choss. . . A Ch...
Most left route. Climb past the first bolt in the blocky roof then up and left across a ledge and to the last four bolts. Climb left at the second bolt for steeper moves and more exposure....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of This is the Choss. . . A Choss Climbing Park Slideshow Add Photo
Pete getting to the first bolt. Good thing he was packing his trusty tricam. <br />
Pete getting to the first bolt. Good thing he was ...

Comments on This is the Choss. . . A Choss Climbing Park Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 15, 2014
By zoso
Aug 16, 2011
What no stars? It can't be worse than cock canyon choss.
By bus driver
Aug 18, 2011
I think unbiased folks should climb the routes and chime in on the quality. i think they are all fun.. . especially on lead.
By zoso
Aug 18, 2011
Unbiased? You picked the wrong hobby.
By James Garrett
Aug 20, 2011
"Expect loose holds". Also expect created Rs (bring a rack!?...and then trust it??!!) and emergency department visits. Luckily numerous hospitals are not far and we have our own Fire/Paramedic team just up the road.
Don't expect "community" (for 5.8-5.10 leaders where falling is aways an option) friendly routes like Greg Martinez has thoughtfully installed on other Wasatch choss piles that almost self cleaned with traffic and were destined for popularity. This "climbing park" is destined for cob webs.

Really good job on the approach trail. It is excellent.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Aug 21, 2011
Awesome! No star Tuesday anyone? James' comments must mean that the rock here is worse than it is across the street under the Condos. Uh-oh.
By bus driver
Aug 21, 2011
sweet! someone actually checked it out. Enjoy!
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Mar 21, 2012
This is, by a significant margin, the worst sport crag I've ever climbed at. The rock is truly horrible.

Having said that, I actually enjoyed the climbing here and will be back. The bad rock makes things more interesting. It forces you to climb slower and in a more methodical way. It's not the best place for new climbers, though.

Thanks for putting up the routes.
By zoso
Mar 21, 2012
You can't argue that expert testimony.
By bus driver
Mar 23, 2012
pardon the shameless crag promotion. But. . .If you like this choss, you may like the rattle horn in city creek canyon. Close to downtown, longer routes, variable rock quality and no crowds, wildlife . . . choss on!
By apross
Mar 23, 2012
Tristan,
can't believe your climbing on that choss with the possibility of birds crapping on you or getting a deadly charlie horse :-)

Andy
By junkshow
Jul 22, 2012
Being an old open pit mine, one will find old relics such as blasting caps, drill bits and of coarse all the garbage of that era. Now with years of freeze thaw and erosion, it has created a chossy gem that in all reality shouldn't be climbed. But with awesome banding and a timescale of saltwater fossils, the thin crimps, great friction and a awkward style of slab climbing gives one a quality climbing experience.

But as stated, "old open pit mine" which means riddled with fractures and probably unstable.
atleast that was my opinion on the place, when I would go traverse the base, "pretty long and super techy in spots." Try for multiple passes!

Ps a few of those routes were done solo, sans bolts. but hey hopefully they are drilled decent and fitted with long bolts or those things aren't going to be good for very long.

I give it 3-5 stars, good old heads up climbing! watch the overhangs and any jugs. Bet they all come down!!
By picholasforbes
From: Salt Lake City
Dec 4, 2013
Definitely an interesting crag. Just a little heads up, (no pun intended)avoid the routes on the far right and high because you will be about 50x more prone to injury.

It is an ever changing crag with some technical moves but for the most part, smooth sailing.

Enjoy!
By Briscomo
May 15, 2014
In the Getting There info, the "Approach is about 100 yards" is wrong, its only 100 feet. Also reminder, there are slithering critters here in Utah watch out for our friend we named Sneaky Snake - 5 feet long.

Also, there were very small bugs all over the rocks. once we were climbing did not notice them.

Also bring a helmet for the belayer, lots of falling choss.

Approach from the road - 100 feet.
Approach from the road - 100 feet.
By Briscomo
May 15, 2014
Whitney lead climbing Euro Choss with ease. The temp was 72 in the valley - plenty warm here.

Here's Whitney making it look easy.
Here's Whitney making it look easy.