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This is not a test 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 752
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Jan 19, 2006

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Bjorn Thorn-Anderson at the crux.

Description 

This climb is located 100' east of the Bolted Chimney route. It climbs a discontinuous crack system up a steep face. The crux is encountered quickly and finding the hidden face holds helps greatly.


Protection 

Small gear. Bolt anchors with chain link or cold-shunts.



Photos of This is not a test Slideshow Add Photo
Look at all that gear. Screams "shaky leader"! <br />Photo by Steve
BETA PHOTO: Look at all that gear. Screams "shaky leader"!
Pho...
Aaron at the crux
Aaron at the crux
Comments on This is not a test Add Comment
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By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Feb 2, 2006

Additional bolt anchors are located at the top of the upper chimney section on the left side. There is also a two bolt anchor at the very top of the left hand tower, although what these anchors are used for is a mystery to me.

By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
May 28, 2006

Climbed this route a second time and it felt much easier. knowing the beta for gear and holds can save a lot of effort. I'm curious if anyone feels it should be down-graded? On my second ascent, I felt this route could be rated a 5.9+, but without beta it can be much harder.

By cuclimbing
From: Las Cruces
Dec 4, 2008

I think a 5.10 is a good rating. What a fun route! And those top bolts are a mystery to me too...unless someone can find a route up that mess right below them without taking out your belayer with rock.