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This is not a test 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 799
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Jan 19, 2006

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Bjorn Thorn-Anderson at the crux.

Description 

This climb is located 100' east of the Bolted Chimney route. It climbs a discontinuous crack system up a steep face. The crux is encountered quickly and finding the hidden face holds helps greatly.

Protection 

Small gear. Bolt anchors with chain link or cold-shunts.


Photos of This is not a test Slideshow Add Photo
Look at all that gear. Screams "shaky leader"! <br />Photo by Steve
BETA PHOTO: Look at all that gear. Screams "shaky leader&...
Aaron at the crux
Aaron at the crux

Comments on This is not a test Add Comment
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By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Feb 2, 2006

Additional bolt anchors are located at the top of the upper chimney section on the left side. There is also a two bolt anchor at the very top of the left hand tower, although what these anchors are used for is a mystery to me.
By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
May 28, 2006

Climbed this route a second time and it felt much easier. knowing the beta for gear and holds can save a lot of effort. I'm curious if anyone feels it should be down-graded? On my second ascent, I felt this route could be rated a 5.9+, but without beta it can be much harder.
By cuclimbing
From: Las Cruces
Dec 4, 2008

I think a 5.10 is a good rating. What a fun route! And those top bolts are a mystery to me too...unless someone can find a route up that mess right below them without taking out your belayer with rock.
By Tony Grenko
From: Las Cruces, NM
Sep 3, 2014

I'm glad to see what a nice Job Aron did outlining La Cueva here. Many of the routes that were named were put up in the 70s and 80s and had/have other names. But that is really of little consequence. THe rating and the guide are helpful; and it all seems very accurate. Also, Aron and friends tapped out lines that, for whatever reason, people had never bothered to climb. You guys seem to have added much to the area. I will add a post with old names and first accent claims later. Among them Wes Thompson and I put up "meanderfest"; and I first lead "this is not a test" in 1986. But the names you guys have here work just as well. The first half of "meanderfest"; up to the ledge, was put of by Dick Ingram in robrins boots back in the 60s. It is called "Ahab."

The front of La Cueva has some good lines as well. We will take a pic this weekend and add them to Mountain project for folks to enjoy as well.

Thanks,
tony grenko