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Tatooine
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Force, The 
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Jawa Jam 
Leia Needs A Lightsaber 
Leia's Leash 
Midichlorophobia 
Millennium Falcon 
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Scum and Villainy 
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Star Destroyer 
That's Not A Lightsaber 
This Is A Lightsaber! 
Triumphal Arch 

This Is A Lightsaber! 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Darren Knezek
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 609
Submitted By: Darren Knezek on May 14, 2009
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Description 

This line climbs a beautiful orange water streak on some of the most amazing holds I've encountered on RC limestone.

To get to the route climb, That's Not A Lightsaber or Star Destroyer.

It's not a bad idea to stick clip the first bolt as blowing the moves right off the deck will land you right on your belayer.

The climb starts off steep with small edges for the right hand and big sidepull pinches for the left.

Around the 3rd bolt the real business begins, but some might be a little pumped at this point.

The next ten feet have some very unique holds with small two-finger, half-pad edges and a two-finger "twisty" pocket. (You'll see what I mean when you get there.)

The last half of the pitch is basic big jugs, stems and using full-body climbing.


Location 

This climb is the pitch that's above That's Not A Lightsaber; it's the orange water streak 75 feet off the ground to the right of the big arch.

Do get down, rappel to the anchors of That's Not A Lightsaber and then another to the ground.

You can get all the way to the ground with a 70-meter rope.


Protection 

8 bolts, ring anchors at bottom and top. Some long slings for your belayer to get comfortable.



Comments on This Is A Lightsaber! Add Comment
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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Apr 16, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

As you can see from my suggested rating, I think that this line is considerably harder than .11a. It's definitely harder than any of the other .11a's on this wall, and I think it's harder than The Force.

I fell off of this thing several times before finally redpointing it. I also used different beta through the crux than Darren, because his way is just too hard :-)

By Peter Duckett
From: provo,UT
Jul 26, 2011

I agree! this route in my opinion is more like an 11c/d but a very good climb. we took an 80m and double pitched to the top in 1 line, kinda spooky if your not used to having that big of a line out but very fun if you can stomach it.