This route is on Atlantis Slab. It is located towards the right side of the crag, just as a steep, bushy, rocky hill meets the wall. The route is visually obvious by a crack system that starts about 20 feet above the ground and goes from RPs to hands.
Ironic name. The guide book shows a bolt on the initial slab getting to the RP seam, but it is no longer there. The crux is getting established a couple moves into the RP seam, and getting there is definite crater potential.
Start from below and to the right, work your way up and left on a steepening slab to the RP seam. Place several pretty good RPs and keep working upwards, the climbing getting progressively easier and transitioning through the sizes. Rap from 3 bolt anchor. You may need to bring some webbing to "freshen up" the anchor.
When I did this, I had to garden as I went as the crack was loaded with dirt and weeds. With some cleaning, this would be a really good route.
RPs to hands.
|By Allen Hill|
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Nov 7, 2010
This is a good route. Even when the bolt was there it was exciting. I always thought it was more 11 A. Maybe it was the scare factor that made it feel harder.