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This Bolt's For You 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tod Anderson, Richard Wright, 5/91
Page Views: 626
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

This is a stout route with very tricky balance. The first bolt may be pre-clipped on the ledge to the right of the route. Start right below the arete and move up the obvious holds on the left face. The crux is finding the proper footholds that will allow you to transfer from a very crimpy lieback to a large flake. Technically difficult and rather small holds--the first bolt is well-placed for a fall.


Protection 

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



Photos of This Bolt's For You Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Keegan after the crux, "This Bolt is for You", Great route!
Mike Keegan after the crux, "This Bolt is for You"...
Comments on This Bolt's For You Add Comment
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By Guppy
Apr 28, 2003

This is one of my favorite climbs in this area. The first time I attempted this climb, my friend started it and couldn't finish. So I was going to finish it for him, but when I ate through the move he was stuck on, I realized that I didn't have any draws on my loops. Tough luck, I never did that again.

By Michael J Yarros
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 6, 2006

This is a nice steep route, although short. I started (top-rope) on the ledge to the right, next time I'll try off the bottom of the arete. This route is right in front of a large boulder sitting on the trail. The anchor at the top is spread out, so be prepared to extend the anchor, normal draws are too short.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jul 15, 2008

FA - May 1991.

By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
May 2, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Kinda contrived. The placement of the 4th bolt forces you to step right into the little alcove, whereas the natural path of least resistance would be to exit up the much easier slab above the 3rd bolt (although admittedly that would have lowered the difficulty by several grades).

With that said, the move going right into the alcove was tricky, balancy, and sorta fun at least on TR. Tried it on lead and chickened out. Of course, I thought I was getting on a 10a haha, based off of the old guidebook. I think I'm gonna go ahead and splurge for the new one....