This Bolt's For You
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This is a stout route with very tricky balance. The first bolt may be pre-clipped on the ledge to the right of the route. Start right below the arete and move up the obvious holds on the left face. The crux is finding the proper footholds that will allow you to transfer from a very crimpy lieback to a large flake. Technically difficult and rather small holds--the first bolt is well-placed for a fall.
4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Mike Keegan after the crux, "This Bolt is for You"...
|Comments on This Bolt's For You
Apr 28, 2003
This is one of my favorite climbs in this area. The first time I attempted this climb, my friend started it and couldn't finish. So I was going to finish it for him, but when I ate through the move he was stuck on, I realized that I didn't have any draws on my loops. Tough luck, I never did that again.
|By Michael J Yarros|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 6, 2006
This is a nice steep route, although short. I started (top-rope) on the ledge to the right, next time I'll try off the bottom of the arete. This route is right in front of a large boulder sitting on the trail. The anchor at the top is spread out, so be prepared to extend the anchor, normal draws are too short.
|By Ben Cassedy|
From: Denver, CO
May 2, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Kinda contrived. The placement of the 4th bolt forces you to step right into the little alcove, whereas the natural path of least resistance would be to exit up the much easier slab above the 3rd bolt (although admittedly that would have lowered the difficulty by several grades).
With that said, the move going right into the alcove was tricky, balancy, and sorta fun at least on TR. Tried it on lead and chickened out. Of course, I thought I was getting on a 10a haha, based off of the old guidebook. I think I'm gonna go ahead and splurge for the new one....