This American Life  V5-6

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Type:  Boulder Consensus:  V5-6 [details] FA:  Flagstaff Oldschool Submitted By:  JJ Schlick on Aug 16, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This American Life is one of the classics on the wall. It takes the left hand side of the biggest bulge section, just right of No News is Good News. Start with a left hand crimpy fingerbucket sidepullish hold, and a slopey fingerstack pocket or high gaston with the right. Get the feet up high and punch straight up to sloper crimp, below the left facing pocket jug which is shaped like a "J". From the "J" jug go straight up past a pinch and slopey crimp to the the top. The first moves are longgggg... Almost improbable unless you are tall, but if you are good at sticking sloper crimp deadpoints...

Protection 

Pad, spotter