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Third Millennium 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Tommy Caldwell
Page Views: 4,578
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Mar 22, 2010
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A legendary rock climb.
Keith Ladzinski photo.

Description 

A groundbreaking ascent in its day (1996), this route remains as one the Front Range's proudest test-pieces and perhaps one of the best of the grade in the country. Begin matched in an undercling and immediately fire into the hardest single moves of the climb, involving a series of crimps and a couple tight pockets. Above the fourth bolt, fire directly into the routes redpoint crux by continuing straight up through an engaging maze of gastons with worsening feet to the fifth bolt. Many-a-hard men and women have been thwarted by this evil tick-tacking. A newer option at the fourth bolt has also emerged that trends hard right to a rest and a considerably easier sequence to the fifth bolt.

Either path you shall choose, above the fifth bolt you will find relative relief amongst larger holds- however, a final compression crux guards the chains, which can (and has) broken the hearts of the pumped and weary!!!

The jaw-dropping aesthetics, interesting movement and long history of this climb are hard to beat. Like I mentioned before, I would undoubtedly rank Third Millennium amongst the best of the grade in the country.


Location 

This is in the center of the NW wall of Magical Mystery Tower, immediately right of "The Quickening" and just left of 'Grand Ol Opry'.


Protection 

10 bolts to 2 BA.



Photos of Third Millennium Slideshow Add Photo
A brief respite before the second crux section.
A brief respite before the second crux section.
Into the sky.
Into the sky.
Coiling up for the first crux.
Coiling up for the first crux.
Michael Morrin on Third Millenium.
Michael Morrin on Third Millenium.
Comments on Third Millennium Add Comment
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By Tank Evans
Jul 10, 2010

The trending right method is certainly the way to go on this climb. Good holds and fun moves bypass some wicked awkwardness, and certainly does not drop the grade to c. Any way you choose to climb this pitch it is considerably harder than its friend, The Quickening.

By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Jul 24, 2010

Sorry I sandbagged you, Tank, but you know me. I get off on heinous little holds!! Hope you sent today. Cheers.

By Kaelen Williams
Nov 3, 2010
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X E8 7a

Jonathan, you forgot to mention this route's dirty little secret: the drilled pocket! *gasp*

By Kaelen Williams
Nov 10, 2010
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X E8 7a

It's all about the straight-up... gaston crimps! Shikadang!