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Routes in City of Gold
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Butter Astronaut S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ghost Meat S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gold Standard S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Grandma Fingers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gravity Pope S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lakota Gangster Messiah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Little Leprechaun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Moms in Mythos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sacred Clown - Heyoka Roof S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sazerac Crack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sleestak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tears and Bubblegum (AKA Rainbow Guru) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Third Intafada S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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White Demon Spawn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Nick Martino - 2010 |
| Page Views: | 2,321 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Bertelsen on Sep 19, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
This is the reason you came all the way up here, and it doesn't get much prettier. The techy lieback start will get your attention right off the bat as you smear your feet and slap your way up the overhanging blue and beige wall. The climbing gets powerful as you figure out how to change from leaning left to right at the crux. Amazing pinching on tufa-like holds follow the crux. Keep it together for some more crimping and use of crack/ runnel feature climbing and you will have climbed one of the most unique 5.13s at Tensleep. It is a shame there aren't more like this.
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