This is the largest, but most indefinite, of the three Advisors. In all, it must total 600' of rock, but it lies in somewhat broken and indefinite sections, connected by chimneys, tree-filled gullies, and rock of lesser quality. Yet some reasonable climbing is here. While the only documented line in publication is the East Face, which Haas accurately describes as the "worst of the three", its fractured nature lends itself to other climbing, and some reasonably good routes have recently been climbed on the North Face. The best route there would be a link-up of the bottom 1/2 of "Sage Advice
" into the finishing bulge of "Supposed Former Grade Inflation Junkie
." which would sport sustained climbing and 2 interesting, fun, and protected cruxes.
A dozen routes in all were climbed on cracks on the North Face, and some are now listed here, on line. Maybe some day I'll put the rest on, if I can find my notes on their locations and details sufficient to adequately describe them... I have pictures already.
The descent to be taken from this rock depends upon which area of the Third Advisor is being climbed, but it is generally a 3rd or 4th class scramble down. From the Northwest Summit, it is a third class scramble Westward down the Northern edge in a shallow gully.
The Third Advisor is the Southern-most of the three and can be reached by climbing down off of the summit of the Second and South by Southeast or by simply hiking in from the Fern Canyon Trail along past the bases of #1 and #2, bush-whacking your way into this one.
Expect some indefinite direction and some adjustments to course. After a few times there, it is still a little difficult to see it coming or know when you've hit it.
Weather station 2.1 miles from here
9 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Third Advisor
Good Advice You Just Didn't Take 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
: ... : Third Advisor
This route was named because on the solo F.A. attempt, Tony got up into a move he didn't like solo and didn't do it, soloing back down and deciding to wait for a rope of a cleaning brush. A few weeks later, he brought Micah up and Tony offered Micah his choice of leads - and Micah picked this one. So, now who can guess what musician Micah had in mind that day?This route climbs up from just right of the 10' pine growing at the base and then fights to the right to establish the climber in the fla...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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