This is the largest, but most indefinite, of the three Advisors. In all, it must total 600' of rock, but it lies in somewhat broken and indefinite sections, connected by chimneys, tree-filled gullies, and rock of lesser quality. Yet some reasonable climbing is here. While the only documented line in publication is the East Face, which Haas accurately describes as the "worst of the three", its fractured nature lends itself to other climbing, and some reasonably good routes have recently been climbed on the North Face. The best route there would be a link-up of the bottom 1/2 of "Sage Advice
" into the finishing bulge of "Supposed Former Grade Inflation Junkie
." which would sport sustained climbing and 2 interesting, fun, and protected cruxes.
A dozen routes in all were climbed on cracks on the North Face, and some are now listed here, on line. Maybe some day I'll put the rest on, if I can find my notes on their locations and details sufficient to adequately describe them... I have pictures already.
The descent to be taken from this rock depends upon which area of the Third Advisor is being climbed, but it is generally a 3rd or 4th class scramble down. From the Northwest Summit, it is a third class scramble Westward down the Northern edge in a shallow gully.
The Third Advisor is the Southern-most of the three and can be reached by climbing down off of the summit of the Second and South by Southeast or by simply hiking in from the Fern Canyon Trail along past the bases of #1 and #2, bush-whacking your way into this one.
Expect some indefinite direction and some adjustments to course. After a few times there, it is still a little difficult to see it coming or know when you've hit it.
Weather station 2.1 miles from here
9 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Third Advisor
Supposed Former Grade Inflation Junkie 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b CO
: ... : Third Advisor
This is a good route with a great crux and some surprising holds. This is the best route on the Third Advisor.Climb up the left-leaning, finger-to-hand sized cracks and offsets past a hard move to get off the ground, and onto a small ledge. Place gear from the first ledge and pass a few small clumps of grass up and left into moderate climbing. Head up into the crack as it heads up into the pinched block at the bulge/roof. Place good gear (2" cam) before hitting the pinched block, then go up a...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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