This is the largest, but most indefinite, of the three Advisors. In all, it must total 600' of rock, but it lies in somewhat broken and indefinite sections, connected by chimneys, tree-filled gullies, and rock of lesser quality. Yet some reasonable climbing is here. While the only documented line in publication is the East Face, which Haas accurately describes as the "worst of the three", its fractured nature lends itself to other climbing, and some reasonably good routes have recently been climbed on the North Face. The best route there would be a link-up of the bottom 1/2 of "Sage Advice
" into the finishing bulge of "Supposed Former Grade Inflation Junkie
." which would sport sustained climbing and 2 interesting, fun, and protected cruxes.
A dozen routes in all were climbed on cracks on the North Face, and some are now listed here, on line. Maybe some day I'll put the rest on, if I can find my notes on their locations and details sufficient to adequately describe them... I have pictures already.
The descent to be taken from this rock depends upon which area of the Third Advisor is being climbed, but it is generally a 3rd or 4th class scramble down. From the Northwest Summit, it is a third class scramble Westward down the Northern edge in a shallow gully.
The Third Advisor is the Southern-most of the three and can be reached by climbing down off of the summit of the Second and South by Southeast or by simply hiking in from the Fern Canyon Trail along past the bases of #1 and #2, bush-whacking your way into this one.
Expect some indefinite direction and some adjustments to course. After a few times there, it is still a little difficult to see it coming or know when you've hit it.
Weather station 2.1 miles from here
9 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Third Advisor
Some Advice Is Hard to Follow 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
: ... : Third Advisor
Some bits of advice are harder to follow than others. Likewise, some routes are harder to follow (or for that matter lead) than others. Of all of the new routes recently done on the Advisor, this one is the only one that generated any rope tension.... The grade is 5.9, but that's an offwidth, so bear it in mind.Climb up into the acute dihedral, using awkward stems and crack moves to get up to a the first good stance and a fist-sized cam placement. Get gear in and make a few more moves to reac...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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