This is the largest, but most indefinite, of the three Advisors. In all, it must total 600' of rock, but it lies in somewhat broken and indefinite sections, connected by chimneys, tree-filled gullies, and rock of lesser quality. Yet some reasonable climbing is here. While the only documented line in publication is the East Face, which Haas accurately describes as the "worst of the three", its fractured nature lends itself to other climbing, and some reasonably good routes have recently been climbed on the North Face. The best route there would be a link-up of the bottom 1/2 of "Sage Advice
" into the finishing bulge of "Supposed Former Grade Inflation Junkie
." which would sport sustained climbing and 2 interesting, fun, and protected cruxes.
A dozen routes in all were climbed on cracks on the North Face, and some are now listed here, on line. Maybe some day I'll put the rest on, if I can find my notes on their locations and details sufficient to adequately describe them... I have pictures already.
The descent to be taken from this rock depends upon which area of the Third Advisor is being climbed, but it is generally a 3rd or 4th class scramble down. From the Northwest Summit, it is a third class scramble Westward down the Northern edge in a shallow gully.
The Third Advisor is the Southern-most of the three and can be reached by climbing down off of the summit of the Second and South by Southeast or by simply hiking in from the Fern Canyon Trail along past the bases of #1 and #2, bush-whacking your way into this one.
Expect some indefinite direction and some adjustments to course. After a few times there, it is still a little difficult to see it coming or know when you've hit it.
Weather station 2.1 miles from here
9 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Third Advisor
Surprisingly Good Advice 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b CO
: ... : Third Advisor
Surprisingly good, actually. This route looks questionable from the ground but yields both good holds and good gear.Start just a few meters left of 'Unsolicited Advice' on a right-facing and left-leaning corner that presents a ramp-like dihedral to get up and onto the rock. Climb this for a body-length and reach into some good flakes and cracks that go up and right on low angle rock. There are a few potential loose flakes on this, but nothing very large. The gear is possible here...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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