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Me a little ways before I fell out of the thing. ...
If you like Supercrack, you'll love this one too. Head up to the far left side of the cliff, left of Crack Attack and the squeeze chimney Grits and Grunt. This is an obvious right facing dihedral with a hand/fist crack that heads through a sizable roof. Just left of this crack is a horrendous looking (unnamed) 5.11 offwidth.
Jam up the crack, if you have large hands, you can hand jam through the roof, otherwise it will be fists. Continue on up to a 2 bolt anchor at 100'.
Many #3 Friends, plus doubles (at least) in the range #1.5 to #3.5 Friend. Camalots are not ideal for the route as much of the crack is at the wide end of a #2 and too narrow for the #3.
I'm at the anchor in this pic
Finishing the route after I blew the onsight. My ...
Paco on Think PINK
Jason cleaning Think Pink.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 11, 2002
What George is forgetting to mention is that the climb is hands for his bear-paws, and fists for tiny, tiny hands, but for average to small hands, it's off hands, or off fists. Thus, it's also a little harder than 5.11a. YMMV.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 6, 2002
There is a nice alternative to starting in the right facing dihedral that avoids some loose blocks. Look left around the corner and climb a kinda dirty but still nice handcrack. It curves right and joins the climb just below the good stuff.
|By Dan St. John|
From: Castle Rock
Sep 24, 2002
I have big hands and the climb felt more like solid 5.10. The size is to small for a #3 Camalot but just at the end of the #2 Camalot range. The tarango hand size worked well which is like #2.5 Camalot(if one existed ). I recomend this climb for the leader on the verge of breaking into the 11 range, those with big hands.
|By Bryson Slothower|
Mar 28, 2005
I did this route last week and also have pretty big hands. I felt the grade was true. 11-
Feb 28, 2006
I have big hands with small fingers (I know, I am a mutant). I found this to be awkward, almost rattle teacups, with the occasional tight fist.
|By Rob Kepley|
Oct 15, 2006
Great climb. Mostly good hands with "cupped hands thru the middle section (#3 Camalot). Total classic.
From: Concord, MA
Oct 30, 2006
i have fairly small hands, and this climb was a struggle. in the roof, i couldn't get jams, nor could i get fist's. i had to lie-back parts of the roof, whitch made it hard to place gear.
sick climb for sure.
Mar 19, 2007
I would not call this a Classic, because of the Sh*t rock at the start. But it is a very good climb and one you should do. The rating on this climb is all based on hand size. Big hands have fun. Small hands, pray to stay in, average hands, move fast through the lower part of the crack. And for the guy who is looking for a 2.5 BD, there is one out there. It is call a 3.0 WC Friend. It works great.
|By Tavis Ricksecker|
From: Bishop, ca
Nov 26, 2007
A #2 camalot, then #3.5 friend, then back to #2 camalots. Only slightly wide at the steep bit for those with big hands. If you have big hands and you cruised Supercrack, this one should be a cruise too. I found the exit moves at the top more tricky than the steep bit.
|By Jonas Wiklund|
Dec 12, 2007
Friend #3 is the perfect size for much of this climb. For my size of hands this is by far the easiest of all the 11's I climbed during a months stay.
|By Rob Duncan|
From: Salt Lake City
May 19, 2008
I would agree #2 camalots are not ideal, but I felt really secure placing all #2's (with one #3 in the wide section just past the roof) on this one. Don't pass it up if you only have BD gear... Really an amazing line! warm up on pigs in space and then cruise this one.
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009
Although the start climbs past some broken rock in the crack, the roof is more than worth it! I places camalot 2s and 3s in the roof and thought it was just fine. AFter the TR is set you can easily start right where you lower off and climb that other crack past most of the choss.
There is one wedged flake where I placed a .5 on one side and a .75 on the other side, clipping the rope to the .5 biner and clipping the .75 to the .5 loop in hopes that if I had fallen the two pieces would exert force at the same time and pinch that rock into place instead of just pushing it out of the way... might have worked but glad I didn't find out.