Things As They Are Now 5.12a
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Getting ready to shoot for the shelf. Taken by Jef...
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Description This short climb may feel more reminiscent of a V4 boulder problem. Not coincidently, it is a popular first 5.12 for boulderers and young climbers. This climb has a cruxy and memorable start that requires body tension and reachy oppositional side pulls. After sticking a deadpoint throw, the climbing becomes progressively easier.
Location This route is at the left side of Left Jimmy Cliff. The start is marked by two counter-top sized slabs of rock that lie flat on the ground. Toprope and lower off of quickdraws clipped to the anchors whenever possible. Otherwise rappel off, or be lowered directly through the anchor.
Protection 3 bolts with two welded shut cold-shuts for an anchor. Stick clip the first bolt.
Jed making the bottom moves on this great climb.
| bottom deadpoint. Photo by GO
| Reach!
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| Comments on Things As They Are Now |
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By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Feb 9, 2007
| This is the only 5.12 I've done many times.... The opening moves are so cool and require such delicacy and attention to detail.... I feel like it is worth doing whenever I'm in the area.... If you haven't done it yet...do it today...ok, well it's like 15 degrees out right now so you are off the hook, but do it soon.... |
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Apr 29, 2007 rating: 5.12a
| Great climb, gotta love the bottom sequence. Anchors could use replacement. |
By Jeff Welch From: Thornton, CO Jun 28, 2007
| I was surprised at how delicate and precise the opening moves are considering how dynamic the problem is. The climb is short, but good. |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh May 12, 2008
| i took a run up this route today and found it still to be fun...it seems like a few holds have broken off, cause i had to change my beta from what ive done before... still felt 5.12a but slightly different... |
By James Otey From: NH May 12, 2008 rating: 5.12a
| Yeah when I climbed it last summer there was a slightly loose sidepull that seemed to be facing imminent demise. What it left was the same size, however, and didn't change the difficulty. I just love the opening moves- sequential and delicate. |
By Tim Waystrong From: New Hampshire May 16, 2009
| I finally go through the crux and up one more move I will get this before the summer is out or sooner |
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh May 18, 2009
| tim man great work hope it goes soon, when i back form australia i will be sure to get on this with you |
By Mike Thompson From: Manchester NH May 18, 2009
| i just got on this for the first time today! wicked fun! i got a little mentaly psyched out so i didnt sent but i got all the moves on it and i think it will go next time out :) |
By T Seas Dec 16, 2009
| As a boulderer and timid leader new to the grade when I first climbed this, I osighted on TR and loved the climb. I came back the next day pumped to lead it. I was so excited that I stick clipped the first bolt, tied in and flashed to the anchors! When I yelled take, I weighted the rope, and it didn't feel right. I looked down and noticed that I had tied into only my lower tie in point. I learned a valuable lesson without any pain or inverted falls. Don't get so excited for a climb you forget the basics. I agree with all on this, really fun climb and a popular route for boulderers, with a wicked fun start. A good size reach helps too. |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Dec 17, 2009
| thanks for the story.... its always good to share your mistakes (we all make em) to help save others from making the same ones... |
By Lincoln Mar 19, 2010
| Amazing climb. Great moves to great rests. |
By tscupp From: Providence, RI Mar 21, 2010 rating: 5.12a
| Very fun, good move after good move. I flashed the lunge but it took me several tries just to figure out the beta for the moves after the jug so be prepared because it's not over yet! |
By Matt Wilson From: Bethel, Vermont, USA Apr 21, 2012
| Tried and failed this climb today. I felt like it was harder above the deadpoint. I got stuck there trying to move above it. |
By James Otey From: NH Apr 24, 2012 rating: 5.12a
| Interesting- I thought it was about a V4 deadpoint to a 5.10 top out |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Apr 25, 2012
| after the dead point there are still a couple of tough crimper moves leading to jugs... i never celebrate until i hit the first big jug... |
By Matt Wilson From: Bethel, Vermont, USA May 5, 2012
| Maybe I am just using whack beta after the dead point. I was trying to utilize a high right hand sloper and a high foot on the dead point jug. |
By josh villeneuve From: Enfield, CT Aug 8, 2012
| I actually had the same problem. Kept getting through the crux no problem but fell a few times going for the jug right before the topout. My foot was on a smear chip that has tons of rubber on it, it kept cutting. |
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