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Jimmy Cliff
Routes Sorted
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Alcove Crack T 
Beginning of All Things, The S 
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 
Cracker Cracks T 
Curl Up and Fly S 
Drilling for Dollars S 
Easter Squall S 
Hammond Organ S 
Hypocrisy S 
Jimmy Crack Corn T 
Junco S 
Lady and the Tramp S 
Lonesome Dove S 
Love Nest T,TR 
Nuthatch, The S 
Piece of Cake S 
Pine Tree Crack T 
Scare Crow T 
Searchers, The T 
Standard Route T 
Stool Pigeon T 
Teacherís Pet S 
Things as They Are S 
Things As They Are Now S 
Things I Never Learned S 
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 
To Love, Honor and Belay S 
When Pigs Fly T 

Things As They Are Now 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 4,036
Submitted By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 22, 2006

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Sticking the deadpoint

Description 

This short climb may feel more reminiscent of a V4 boulder problem. Not coincidently, it is a popular first 5.12 for boulderers and young climbers.

This climb has a cruxy and memorable start that requires body tension and reachy oppositional side pulls. After sticking a deadpoint throw, the climbing becomes progressively easier.

Location 

This route is at the left side of Left Jimmy Cliff. The start is marked by two counter-top sized slabs of rock that lie flat on the ground. Toprope and lower off of quickdraws clipped to the anchors whenever possible. Otherwise rappel off, or be lowered directly through the anchor.

Protection 

3 bolts with two welded shut cold-shuts for an anchor. Stick clip the first bolt.


Photos of Things As They Are Now Slideshow Add Photo
Jed making the bottom moves on this great climb.
Jed making the bottom moves on this great climb.
Last tricky moves before the finishing jugs
Last tricky moves before the finishing jugs
bottom deadpoint. Photo by GO
bottom deadpoint. Photo by GO
Getting ready to shoot for the shelf. Taken by Jef...
Getting ready to shoot for the shelf. Taken by Jef...
Reach!
Reach!
Me setting up for the deadpoint
Me setting up for the deadpoint

Comments on Things As They Are Now Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 27, 2014
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 9, 2007

This is the only 5.12 I've done many times.... The opening moves are so cool and require such delicacy and attention to detail.... I feel like it is worth doing whenever I'm in the area....
If you haven't done it yet...do it today...ok, well it's like 15 degrees out right now so you are off the hook, but do it soon....
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 29, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great climb, gotta love the bottom sequence.
Anchors could use replacement.
By adrenalated
From: Denver, CO
Jun 28, 2007

I was surprised at how delicate and precise the opening moves are considering how dynamic the problem is. The climb is short, but good.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 12, 2008

i took a run up this route today and found it still to be fun...it seems like a few holds have broken off, cause i had to change my beta from what ive done before... still felt 5.12a but slightly different...
By James Otey
From: NH
May 12, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Yeah when I climbed it last summer there was a slightly loose sidepull that seemed to be facing imminent demise. What it left was the same size, however, and didn't change the difficulty. I just love the opening moves- sequential and delicate.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 18, 2009

tim man great work hope it goes soon, when i back form australia i will be sure to get on this with you
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
May 18, 2009

i just got on this for the first time today! wicked fun! i got a little mentaly psyched out so i didnt sent but i got all the moves on it and i think it will go next time out :)
By T Seas
Dec 16, 2009

As a boulderer and timid leader new to the grade when I first climbed this, I osighted on TR and loved the climb. I came back the next day pumped to lead it. I was so excited that I stick clipped the first bolt, tied in and flashed to the anchors!

When I yelled take, I weighted the rope, and it didn't feel right. I looked down and noticed that I had tied into only my lower tie in point. I learned a valuable lesson without any pain or inverted falls. Don't get so excited for a climb you forget the basics.

I agree with all on this, really fun climb and a popular route for boulderers, with a wicked fun start. A good size reach helps too.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 17, 2009

thanks for the story.... its always good to share your mistakes (we all make em) to help save others from making the same ones...
By Lincoln
Mar 19, 2010

Amazing climb. Great moves to great rests.
By tscupp
From: Cincinnati, OH
Mar 21, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Very fun, good move after good move. I flashed the lunge but it took me several tries just to figure out the beta for the moves after the jug so be prepared because it's not over yet!
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 21, 2012

Tried and failed this climb today. I felt like it was harder above the deadpoint. I got stuck there trying to move above it.
By James Otey
From: NH
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Interesting- I thought it was about a V4 deadpoint to a 5.10 top out
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 25, 2012

after the dead point there are still a couple of tough crimper moves leading to jugs... i never celebrate until i hit the first big jug...
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
May 5, 2012

Maybe I am just using whack beta after the dead point. I was trying to utilize a high right hand sloper and a high foot on the dead point jug.
By josh villeneuve
From: Enfield, CT
Aug 8, 2012

I actually had the same problem. Kept getting through the crux no problem but fell a few times going for the jug right before the topout. My foot was on a smear chip that has tons of rubber on it, it kept cutting.
By Dan Pfistner
From: BEVERLY, MA
May 27, 2014

Make sure you bring a brush, the lower half of this route is smooth like a marble countertop and has a hefty chalk-cake on the opening sidepulls. Bring precise footwork and long arms as well.
By Jon Frisby
From: New York, NY
Oct 27, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

If you cross into the side pull just right of the deadpoint jug, lean back and bring your left heel up to the jug, it's super secure going for the crimp. Then you rock onto your toe and grab the other side pull crimp and hit the shelf. Careful about rope-over-leg with the heel hook