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Via Ferrata S 

Thin Man 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Scott Stevenson, 1991
Page Views: 4,578
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Matt Ritter on the beginning of Thin man

Description 

Thin Man climbs up the center of Main Cliff, just left of Peanut Man. The climb can be recognized by a large, complex orange corner leading to an ominous schist roof.

Belay on the ledge. At the second bolt, bouldery moves deposit the climber onto a hanging slab. More technical moves lead to another hanging slab and the last true rest on the route. From here, a long move up and right to a rail may stymie climbers with less reach. The technical moves continue until a big, energy sapping, deadpoint out right allows exit from the corner.

The schist overhang above is classic Rumney: weird, insecure climbing on steep rock. I have been told that a neck/shoulder scum under the roof offers a good rest. I never could find it and felt instead like my body was being pressed lengthways in a vice. There have also been rumors of a knee bar rest here--never could find that one either. Thin Man ends at an anchor on the upper ledge, about ten feet left of Peanut Man's anchors.

Though traditionally graded 5.13a, there seems to be consensus that Thin Man is at least a letter grade harder. Shorter climbers may find it harder still.


Protection 

9 Bolts



Photos of Thin Man Slideshow Add Photo
aryesh working up the rail
aryesh working up the rail
otey's feet enjoying a nice rest on thin Man
otey's feet enjoying a nice rest on thin Man
Matt on Thin Man
Matt on Thin Man
Lee sending
Lee sending
Setting up for the span move
Setting up for the span move
Matt on Thin man
Matt on Thin man
otey sticking the crux(?) crimp...
otey sticking the crux(?) crimp...
aryesh working them feet after hitting the span move out right
aryesh working them feet after hitting the span mo...
Thin Man follows the yellow line. Rocket Man diverges left, along the red line. The climber to the right is nearing the Peanut Man crux.
BETA PHOTO: Thin Man follows the yellow line. Rocket Man diver...
Upper pump crux
Upper pump crux
Comments on Thin Man Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 17, 2007

The Extension Pitches

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 18, 2007
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

An even better (and harder) second pitch is to move left and up into As The World Burns, an exposed, pumpy 12b that will get you to the belay anchor on the ledge for a third pitch, The Thing , which is the last pitch of Via Ferrata. There is a pin on the second pitch that shouldn't be clipped, or it will introduce a bunch of rope drag. It was used for bolting the route and needs to be removed.

And, yup Jay, the rest is no hands, though you might end up with a crooked neck for a week if you don't find the sweet spot.

By Joe Terravecchia
Oct 28, 2008
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

The neck/head scum at the roof with a left foot back step made a big difference for me. Felt about as hard as Beat Junkie.

By James Otey
From: NH
Jul 5, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

To avoid a crooked neck and sore back, look left at the roof and lean against a small bump with your palm. A bit strenuous on the triceps and core, but I think it beats the neck scum.

By Mark Richey
Jul 21, 2010
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Outstanding rock quality, awesome moves with the hardest sequence coming at the end!

By James Otey
From: NH
Jul 21, 2010
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Agreed, Mark.

I would go so far as to say this is the best sport climb I've ever touched.

By Craig Smith
Jul 21, 2011

Scott and I bolted this route. I missed the first ascent due to work. Went back and climbed the route and kicked myself....great route...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Scary story from today:
1st time on the thin man, i was heading up with the 3rd bolt at my feet as i worked over in to the resting stance (not too hard but awkward) and i looked down to see my rope not clipped in (if i had slipped i would have been on the ground) i guess my focus was on the moves not on making sure the gate had closed, the biner i clipped hadnt closed and the rope came back out... i had to down climb reclip it and close the gate manually... really scary since it basically left me soloing on a 5.13 i'd never touched before!

i replaced the biner... i think we should all pitch in and replace these biners that so many of us use...

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

You are setting us up for a fixed draw debate, Lee. I'm biting my tongue. Glad you noticed it on time and were ok.
Great route, isn't it? We may have to take a letter grade off for you with your reach though ;)

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

yeah, great climb and call it 5.5 for all i care :P

as far as my story, i just thought it should be shared... pretty easy to keep up with that stuff though... i find bail biners, take em down and put em back up to replace the bad ones on other routes, problem solved :)