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On the north side of Chair Rock. I did the first lead of this, but it was Scott "Zippy" Reynolds who really got the ball rolling on this. It was an old Dave Bell A4 route before Scott got it in his head to free climb it.
It's on the right side and is composed of triple cracks. Like a tiny Shield headwall. The crux is getting from the first crack to the second and is protected by a bolt.
Rappel from bolts 120 feet.
Small stoppers. Very small TCU or ball nut for the moves getting to the bolt. The crack opens up and takes mid sized cams up high. There is a fixed angle above the crux.
Wire brushing the crux
Just above the crux.
|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jul 18, 2008
Any guess as to what the modern day aid rating would be? Can it be done clean?
I don't know why but I actually enjoy aid climbing.
|By Allen Hill|
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Oct 19, 2009
Jason, Dave Bell, who did the first ascent called it A3 I believe. When we freed it we added a bolt and a fixed pin. (with Dave's blessing) With those in place and a slider nut made it plenty safe. It'd be C1 now. I might have used a large RP as well. Remind me to tell you the story of when and how I became obsessed with free climbing it. Lets get out in the next couple of weeks.