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At the rest before the crux move.
This great long pitch begins with easier climbing and a smeary corner. You can get a full-on no-hands rest at the first set of anchors, but don't stop there, the best is yet to come. Go straight up the seam (crux) to a good hand crack and more superb liebacking. Most people skip the crux by going right at the first set of anchors, making it not as good at about 5.10. Warning, a 70 meter rope is needed to reach the ground on this one.
Far right side of the lower wall, the splitter upper crack is easily seen from below.
Fixed clips are at the anchor.
Adam Greenstreet on Thin Fingers 5.11a
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 30, 2006
This is a great climb that requires a nice variety of techniques. If I recall, you might want to bring some small gear for the crux moving up off the first belay.
|By Jesse James|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 24, 2006
A cool variation called Big Toes (5.11) traverses right at the upper roof to another thin crack about 10 feet to the right of the regular route. Rejoin thin fingers about 10 feet below the anchor.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Jun 4, 2007
This one really should be called "thin hands". The splitter upper crack is primarily #1 camalots. I'd bring at least three #1 camalots next time - I only had two and had to back clean.
A good rack would be doubles thin to #2 camalots, with some extra #1 and #0.75 camalots. Small nuts are useful as well.
The 11a crux is hard and balancy. I cheated. I'm blaming the ... err.. humidity. The upper crack is sweetness and worth the cheat.
70m gets you down perfectly.
Sep 7, 2010
Triples of red and green camalots is a little excessive for this route.
|By Max Tepfer|
From: Central Oregon
Jul 19, 2011
Agreed that triples red/green is excessive, but some like excess. With some advanced TRing skills, you can make a 60 work utilizing the ledge system climber's right of of the route about 10 feet up to belay from and/or walk down off. It's funky but functional and mostly safe.
|By Andrew Shannahan|
From: Lynnwood, WA
Oct 18, 2012
Reachy move off the first ledge gets you a good finger lock. You can put a small nut in the thin seam off the second ledge for a little extra protection. I start the slab crux with my right hand on a couple of low right side pulls to the right of the slab crux, my left on the good foothold on the far right of the slab, and my left hand working up the thin seam on the slab. Get a piece in right above the slab and another one once you've got your hands on the flake off the slab, before you turn it into hand jams. Get a #2(?) in half way up the hand jams. Rest at the roof, put in pro at the roof or reach up left. Lieback the next short flake entirely, putting a #.75 off the first good stance, then gun for the jugs. Easy climbing up and right from there.