Begin as for Trident, but instead of turning the large roof, traverse left on the ledge and surmount a much smaller and easier one. Excellent fingerlocks and handholds and a good flake to get your right foot upon while overcoming this roof make this an easy route. Above the roof, scramble straight up in a wide crack (practically a chimney) above, or else venture right onto the slab for more interesting climbing.
Standard Flatiron rack.
Ethan half way up Thin Crack.
Thin Crack set up to top rope.
|By nick moeckel|
Mar 8, 2005
I thought that the crack below and left of the rooflet, with a scrawny tree at the top, was a more interesting way to start than scrambling up below trident.
|By Scott McMahon|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 26, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
Start underneath the small tree is a bit harder. I'd recommend flipping your rope to the climber's right of the tree right away, otherwise you'll spend 10 minutes trying to get it unstuck from the branches.
Thought it was harder than a standard Flatiron 5.4, especially starting under the small tree.
Aug 2, 2012
Full sun makes this a hot climb on a typical summer day, the tree to the east will keep the base in shade until 10:00, maybe 11:00ish - plan on full sun until 2:00ish. Shady all afternoon, but only if there are no thunderstorms.
Great climb; my 14 year old and 12 year old boys had a great day and both climbed twice. The roof was intimidating to them from the ground, but it was a piece of cake once up with lots of hand and foot holds on this route. Be careful rappelling back down over the roof. After they figured out this move, they loved it.