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Unsorted Routes:

Thieves 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eddie Whittemore
Page Views: 773
Submitted By: Alex Whitman on Apr 30, 2012
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Description 

Interesting climb on the Crime Buttress. Passes a few blank areas, a few no hands ledges and pumpy headwall that could spit off an unassuming suitor. Keep it together up high, it's all there.


Location 

This shares the start and first 3 bolts with Liars, 12c, then breaks left at the obvious no hands at the 4th bolt. One bolt-line left of Standing Room Only on the Crime Buttress.


Protection 

Bolts.



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By Blake Cash
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

This description is quite confusing. It is technically NOT the 3rd line of bolts, but the 2nd. It shares the start and first 3 bolts with Liars, 12c, then breaks left at the obvious no hands at the 4th bolt...and it is only one bolt-line left of Standing Room Only.

By Alex Whitman
May 1, 2012

Thanks Blake. Updated the description.

Oh and do you have to downgrade EVERYTHING?

By Whipper
From: Douglasville, GA
May 14, 2012

Umm...not sure what's confusing. My copy of the DCA says it clearly starts on Liars and trends left, making it the third route from the right, including Standing Room Only. Made sense the very first time I ever went there. It's also every bit of 12a/b. I've seen lots of folks hang all over it, but then I've also seen folks hang all over things and then downgrade it. Go figure...

By Blake Cash
Jul 1, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Then you're the best guidebook reader of all time, congrats...and it was the DCA you deciphered to boot. The way it appears to ME, is that it's the 2nd bolt line, yes, it splits into two routes, but if you're looking at the ground at bolt lines, it's the 2nd line of bolts that then breaks left at the 3rd bolt. Good that you got it right. I was trying to be a bit more specific. And it's also fine you think it's 12a/b, maybe it is? I don't think it is, but who cares?