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The Wasteland
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Gun Shy S 
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Thieves S 
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Thieves 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Mike Pont, Pete Zoller
Page Views: 1,298
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Dec 13, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Ashley on Thieves.

Description 

This is one route right of The Beast and joins the upper two or three bolts of Gun Shy to finish at the same anchors.

It was named Thieves both because a fixed line was stolen off the route and because of the hungry beta sponges loitering around the base of the line waiting for it to get sent!

Anyway, a bouldery, somewhat painful start on underclings leads to easier ground and a "slabby" crux on thin sidepulls. This route is a bit hard on the tips, so approach it with a good attitude and lots of fresh skin. This is a good route to try if you have more power than endurance . . . .


Protection 

6-8 quickdraws.



Photos of Thieves Slideshow Add Photo
Kyle McFarland at the first kneebar rest on Thieves. Photo: Justin Jendzejec
Kyle McFarland at the first kneebar rest on Thieve...
Jerad entering the crux on Thieves. Photo by Justin Jendzejec
Jerad entering the crux on Thieves. Photo by Justi...
Some guy on Thieves.
Some guy on Thieves.
Comments on Thieves Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 20, 2002

A hold in the crux is almost [definitely] manufactured, though it would certainly go without.

By melissa lipani
Aug 17, 2004
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

A really fun, bouldery route. Very temperature and skin dependent. Not sure where the "b" would figure in on the grade, but definitely solid and fun on great rock. A few kneebars prove helpful. First possible one is for the right knee in the underclings section at the bottom, which didn't work for my height. Next one is for the left knee (wear a pad) at the third clip is really good to use so you can shake out before the crux. Last one is after the crux in the pod, which makes it cake to clip the last bolt. At the crux (4th clip) you can either skip the clip, or hang an obscenely long draw to clip prior to moving into the crux. At the crux you have another choice after you grab the crappy right crimper and left crappy pinch. You can either surf blindly to the right into some decent right side pulls, or go straight up to a left gaston.