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B-Movie Wall
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They Saved Hitler's Brain 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Carr
Page Views: 328
Submitted By: chossmonkey on Nov 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Bouldery with pretty small holds for this wall and a tough 4th clip. The route kinda zigzags at the bottom and then pretty well follows the bolts from the third up. There is a big pocket just below the third bolt. Cool moves.


Location 

Near the center of the wall. Just right of Repoman. 9th route from the left overall. 6th from the left cave. 4th from the left of Blood Beach.


Protection 

5 bolts and anchors.



Comments on They Saved Hitler's Brain Add Comment
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By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Sep 25, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Why the PG-13 grade? Seemed reasonably bolted to me. Pretty much a long hard boulder problem with some hard clips thrown in...

By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Mar 9, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I can't find a single picture of this route on the web or hardly any for the crag itself for that matter. Come to think of it the entire Lion's Head Area is pretty much the same - it's as if these crags don't exist on the web.

By Raiden
From: Royal Oak, MI
Jun 16, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I would agree that this climb is reasonably bolted (no reason to call it PG13). The 4th clip is not super tough; there are good holds just above the bolt.